Dashi as a savory foundation
Dashi gives many Japanese dishes a light, savory flavor without making the broth heavy. In this collection, it features in kitsune udon, chawanmushi, okonomiyaki and tomatoes with sesame and shiso. Let kombu steep gently in water; katsuobushi makes a broth with a distinctly savory note. Heat the kombu gradually and remove it from the pan before the water boils to keep the flavor clear. For a plant-based version, you can leave out the katsuobushi and steep kombu with dried shiitake, for example. This changes the flavor profile but still gives you a useful base. Use light Japanese soy sauce when a recipe calls for it: it’s meant to season broth without making it unnecessarily dark.
Choose between rice, noodles and batter
For a bowl of noodles, kitsune udon and cold soba salad are very different options. Udon is thick and soft, served in a mild broth with sweet-salty aburaage. Soba has a distinctive buckwheat-like flavor; rinsed cold, the noodles are ideal for a salad with ponzu, cucumber and edamame. With rice dishes, the preparation makes all the difference: chirashi-zushi is dressed with mildly seasoned rice vinegar and served lukewarm, while omurice wraps ketchup-seasoned rice in a soft omelet. Omurice is yoshoku: Japanese dishes made in a Western style, not a traditional sushi preparation. Osaka-style okonomiyaki, by contrast, is a hearty cabbage pancake with dashi, nagaimo and pork belly. Cook it gently with a lid so the center cooks through without pressing the pancake flat.
Fresh, crispy and savory on one plate
Several side dishes are all about contrast. Fried maitake develops browned, crispy edges; ponzu and butter add acidity and richness at the same time. With yaki-negi, the soft leek makes a pleasant counterpoint to the crispy rice. The green beans with miso-lemon butter pair a creamy, savory sauce with fresh lemon and crispy shallots. Pay attention to the order when making dishes like these: often, add acidity at the end and scatter crispy toppings over the dish just before serving. This helps preserve their texture. Shiso has its own distinctive aromatic flavor; if you can’t find it, you can leave it out or use a little mint, but it isn’t an exact substitute. You can’t simply replace ponzu with soy sauce alone: fresh citrus acidity is part of its flavor. Serve vegetable sides with rice or noodles, or combine several small dishes for a varied meal.