ABOUT THIS RECIPEFrom peppery and crisp to tender and savory
Raw radishes are fresh and peppery, but frying softens their sharpness and makes the inside juicy. Their flavor is still recognizable, just a little milder. Halve small radishes; cut larger ones into quarters so the pieces are roughly the same thickness and cook at the same time. Let the cut sides brown gently first: that gives them golden edges without making the radishes soft and limp right away.
The miso butter brings salt and umami, while rice vinegar adds a bright, sharp counterpoint. White miso is mild and pairs well with the delicate flavor of radishes. If you use red miso, which is generally more intense and saltier, start with about half the amount and taste before adding more. Stir the miso and vinegar into softened butter; adding the sauce to the warm radishes off the heat keeps the butter creamy and helps it coat the vegetables evenly.
In the Netherlands, radishes are especially associated with spring, although they’re available for much of the year. Choose firm radishes with smooth skins; very large ones can be a little woody. Freshly toasted sesame seeds add a nutty crunch and smell much more intense than seeds that have been open in the cupboard for a long time. No rice vinegar on hand? Mild apple cider vinegar works too, but use a little less and taste as you go: acidity varies by brand.
Serve this side dish right away, while the radishes are still warm and the butter is glossy. It goes well with steamed rice and grilled fish, but can also round out a bowl of rice with pan-fried tofu. Keep the rest of the meal simple so the combination of tender vegetables, salty miso, bright vinegar, and crunchy sesame stands out. For a milder flavor, cook the radishes a little longer; stop before they lose their shape.
If you have any leftovers, let them cool and refrigerate, covered, within two hours. Keep for up to two days. Warm the radishes gently in a frying pan over low heat, adding a small splash of water if needed; heating them too vigorously can cause the butter to split. For the best crunch, sprinkle the sesame over the radishes after reheating.