This Japanese warabi mochi is soft, springy and almost translucent. Toasted soybean flour adds a nutty contrast, while kuromitsu, a syrup made from black sugar, makes every bite rich and lightly caramel-like.
Warabi mochi is all about texture: the little cubes are soft and elastic, quite different from the firmer rice mochi many people know. The base is warabiko, starch from the rhizome of the bracken fern. First stir it with cold water until smooth, then heat it while stirring. In the pan, the mixture changes from milky white to glossy and translucent; that’s the sign that the starch is cooked. Keep stirring, including along the bottom and sides, so it thickens evenly and doesn’t stick.
Check the packaging when you buy it: warabi-ko products can be made from pure bracken-root starch, or from a blend with, for example, tapioca starch or sweet potato starch. The ingredients affect the firmness and sometimes the amount of water needed. This recipe is designed for warabiko; if you’re using a blend, follow the package directions if they differ significantly. Regular cornstarch is not a direct substitute for the same characteristic springiness. Pure warabiko is often more expensive, but gives the most distinctive, soft texture.
Kinako is roasted soybean flour. It tastes dry, lightly toasted and nutty, and absorbs some of the sticky coating, making the cubes easier to pick up. Mix it with a little sugar and salt: this not only makes it sweeter, but also brings out the toasted flavour. Kuromitsu is a dark syrup made from black sugar. Kokutō is a good choice for this; dark brown sugar also works, although the flavour will be more caramel-like and less distinctive.
Let the mochi cool after cooking until it’s firm enough to cut, but don’t chill it for longer than necessary. Refrigeration can change its soft, elastic bite. A lightly moistened knife helps with cutting; coat the pieces with kinako straight away. Serve the syrup on the side or drizzle a little over the mochi, so the kinako doesn’t get wet straight away. Warabi mochi is best eaten the day it’s made. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator and bring them back to room temperature before serving; the texture may be firmer.
Mix the kinako with 1 tablespoon of sugar and the salt in a small bowl. Set aside.
Put the kokutō and 50 ml water in a small saucepan. Bring gently to a boil and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer gently for 4–6 minutes until the syrup is slightly thickened; it will thicken further as it cools. Pour into a small bowl.
Stir the warabiko, 250 ml cold water and 50 g sugar together in a medium saucepan until smooth. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk or spatula.
As soon as the mixture starts to thicken, stir vigorously and scrape the bottom and sides of the pan. Remove the pan from the heat when the mixture is glossy and mostly translucent, after about 5–8 minutes.
Spoon the warm mochi into a shallow dish rinsed with cold water. Smooth the top and leave to cool for 30–40 minutes, until firm enough to cut.
Turn the mochi out onto a cutting board, wet a knife and cut into bite-sized cubes. Immediately coat the pieces generously in the kinako and serve with the cooled kuromitsu.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.