Thin slices of octopus, crisp cucumber and a fresh rice vinegar dressing come together in a light Japanese first course. Toss the salad just before serving so the cucumber stays crunchy.
Sunomono is a general Japanese term for dishes made with ingredients in a light vinegar dressing. In this version, tako, or octopus, takes centre stage alongside cucumber. Rice vinegar brings a bright, gentle acidity; a small amount of sugar rounds it out, while soy sauce adds salt and umami. The flavour is deliberately light, so the briny octopus remains distinctive. Serve the salad as a small first course or as part of a meal with several Japanese dishes.
Texture makes the dish: slice cooked octopus thinly so the pieces are easy to eat and the dressing clings to them. The cucumber is lightly salted first. This draws out moisture; gently squeeze the slices afterwards, or the released water will dilute the vinegar dressing. They should be pliable but still crisp. Toss everything just before serving. Marinating for too long softens the cucumber and makes the salad watery.
Dried wakame adds a soft, slightly slippery bite and a subtle taste of the sea. Soak it briefly in cold water and squeeze it well before adding. You can also leave it out if you prefer a salad made with just octopus and cucumber. Use rice vinegar for the dressing, as it is milder than many other vinegars. White wine vinegar can be used instead, but use a little less and taste as you go: the sharpness varies by brand. Soy sauce already adds salt, so extra salt in the dressing is usually unnecessary.
Cooked octopus is often available from a fishmonger or a well-stocked supermarket. Choose octopus that is already cooked and cooled; raw octopus requires a very different preparation and is not suitable for this quick salad. Slice the tentacle crosswise into thin pieces. A sharp knife helps you cut them evenly. Keep the dressing separate until you are ready to toss the salad, then taste to see whether it needs a little more vinegar or sugar.
Serve the salad chilled or at room temperature in small bowls. It works well before grilled fish, rice or other light dishes, and can also be served alongside a selection of small bites. Store any leftovers covered in the fridge and preferably eat them within a day; the cucumber will lose its crunch over time.
Put the dried wakame in a small bowl with the cold water and soak for 5 minutes. Drain and gently squeeze out the wakame.
Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Toss with the salt and leave for 10 minutes. Gently squeeze out the moisture with clean hands.
Slice the cooked octopus crosswise into thin pieces.
In a small bowl, stir together the rice vinegar, sugar and soy sauce until the sugar has dissolved.
Put the cucumber, octopus and wakame in a bowl. Pour over the dressing just before serving and toss gently.
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