A cuisine with many regional faces
‘Indian’ is a broad umbrella term here, not one fixed style of cooking. The recipes come from different regions: the coconut milk and curry leaves in Kerala fish moilee point to a different flavour profile from the tamarind and toasted spices in Goan fish curry. In Maharashtra, peanuts, sesame and coconut add body to bharli vangi, while Gujarati handvo combines rice and lentils into a savoury, fermented baked cake. The curries, too, each have their own approach: Punjabi rajma is built around kidney beans and a reduced tomato masala; Bengali shorshe maach, by contrast, centres on a boldly flavoured mustard sauce. Use these regional names as a guide to ingredients and technique, not as a reason to lump all the dishes together.
Not all spices are prepared the same way
Briefly toasting a spice, letting it release its aroma in oil or grinding it into a paste each produces a different result. For Chettinad chicken curry, whole spices are dry-roasted and then ground, forming a robust aromatic base for the sauce. For aloo gobi, cumin seeds and ground spices are briefly fried in hot oil before the vegetables go in. Take your time with both steps, but keep the heat under control: the spices should become fragrant, not burn. Sour ingredients bring a different kind of balance. Tamarind gives Goan vindaloo and fish curry a bright tang; amchur lends North Indian chana masala a drier, fruity note. If you don’t have amchur, you can use a little lemon juice in chana masala as a practical substitute, but add it gradually and taste as you go.
Choose by cooking time, texture and what to serve alongside
For a more elaborate meal, try the longer-cooking dishes: rajma needs soaked beans that are cooked until tender, while Hyderabadi haleem is slowly simmered until the wheat, lentils and lamb come together in a thick, fibrous texture. If you’re after something for a shorter cooking session, masala omelette and poha are good options; for a snack with clear contrasts, pyaaz pakora and aloo tikki chaat offer crispy coatings, chutneys and fresh toppings. The chutneys and side dishes do more than add colour: yoghurt tempers the heat and rounds out spicy dishes, while lemon or lime makes a sauce taste lighter. Fresh methi can be hard to find; for thepla, you can use finely chopped spinach, bearing in mind that the bread will then have less of its characteristic bitter, aromatic flavour. Serve curries with the rice listed alongside them, or choose roti where suggested.