ABOUT THIS RECIPEClear Cubes, Dark Syrup
Anmitsu is a Japanese dessert built around contrast: neutral agar jelly with sweet anko, juicy fruit and syrup with a deep caramel flavor. The components stay distinct in the bowl, so you can choose the proportions with every bite. This is a simple homemade version with strawberries, kiwi and orange; feel free to adjust the fruit depending on what’s ripe and tasty.
Agar, also called agar-agar, is made from seaweed and sets into a firmer, less wobbly jelly than gelatin. Agar needs to boil thoroughly to dissolve. So after bringing the mixture to a boil, let it simmer gently for a little longer, stirring along the bottom of the pan. The jelly starts to set as it cools, but chilling it in the refrigerator makes the cubes pleasantly cool. Cut them only once they have set completely.
The agar is lightly sweetened here, keeping it fresh alongside the anko and kuromitsu. Anko is sweet red bean paste; a smooth variety gives a soft, even bite, while chunky anko has more texture. Both work well. Ready-made anko is convenient, but keep in mind that it is already sweet: adding extra sugar to the jelly can quickly make the dessert too rich. A small amount of sugar in the agar rounds out the flavor without overpowering it with sweetness.
Kuromitsu means black sugar syrup. Japanese black cane sugar, often sold as kokutō, has a full, slightly smoky caramel flavor. If you can’t find it, dark muscovado sugar works as a substitute; the flavor is a little different, but still rich and syrupy. Let the syrup cool after dissolving the sugar: it will thicken further as it cools. If it’s too thick to serve, stir in a teaspoon of warm water.
Strawberries add a fresh note when they’re in season; kiwi and orange bring juiciness and acidity outside strawberry season, too. Feel free to replace them with other firm, ripe fruit, but avoid fruit that quickly turns mushy. Divide the agar, fruit and anko among four bowls and serve the kuromitsu on the side, so everyone can add as much as they like. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and preferably eat them within two days; keep the syrup separate until serving.