This savory Gujarati cake gets a gently tangy depth from fermented rice-and-lentil batter and a crisp sesame crust. Cut it into wedges and serve warm with fresh green chutney.
Handvo is a savory cake from Gujarat, in western India. It starts with a batter of rice and lentils that ferments before baking. The proportions and legumes used vary from recipe to recipe; here, chana dal, toor dal and urad dal, together with rice, give it a hearty but not heavy bite. Yogurt gets the batter going and adds a mild tang. Bottle gourd, also known as lauki or doodhi, keeps the inside moist without overpowering the spices.
Fermentation matters for more than just a rise: the batter develops a lightly tangy aroma and more flavor than a quickly mixed batter. Cover it and leave it in a moderately warm place, around 20–24 °C. After eight to ten hours, you may see small bubbles and notice a mildly sour smell. A cool kitchen slows fermentation; a very warm spot speeds it up, so it’s better to look and smell than to follow the timing blindly. Use a clean bowl and bake the batter once it has clearly fermented.
An oven gives you an evenly cooked, sturdy handvo and needs less attention than cooking it in a pan. A preheated metal baking pan helps the bottom brown; a glass dish may take a little longer. The sesame-and-mustard oil on top creates a nutty, crisp edge, while the grated bottle gourd keeps the crumb soft. Don’t squeeze the gourd completely dry: some moisture belongs in the batter, but add any liquid that comes out gradually so the batter stays thick.
Bottle gourd is available at South Asian grocery stores; zucchini is a good substitute if you can’t find it. The flavor and moisture content vary, so grate the zucchini and squeeze out more liquid. You can replace some of the chana or toor dal with yellow mung dal, but keep the total amount the same. Don’t use cooked lentils: this recipe relies on raw, soaked legumes that you grind with the rice.
Serve the handvo as a starter in small wedges, with green chutney made with cilantro, mint and lemon. The fresh, herby sauce cuts through the tender crumb and toasted sesame. You can also serve it alongside a simple meal. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat them thoroughly in an oven or skillet; that way, the crust firms up again.
Rinse the rice, chana dal, toor dal and urad dal until the water runs clearer. Cover generously with cold water and soak for 4 hours. Drain.
Grind the soaked rice and lentils in a blender or food processor with the yogurt and 100 ml water to make a thick, coarse batter. Add more water if needed; it should not become runny.
Spoon the batter into a clean bowl, cover and leave to ferment for 8–10 hours in a place around 20–24 °C. The batter may rise slightly and should smell pleasantly sour.
Preheat the oven to 190 °C. Grease a round baking pan about 22 cm across with 1 tbsp oil. Grate the bottle gourd and squeeze out only some of the liquid.
Stir the bottle gourd, ginger, finely chopped chili, turmeric, asafoetida, salt and sugar into the batter. Stir in the baking soda at the very end.
Heat the remaining 2 tbsp oil in a small pan. Add the mustard seeds and wait until they start to pop. Stir in the curry leaves and take the pan off the heat. Pour the hot oil and spices over the batter and briefly fold them in.
Spoon the batter into the baking pan and smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds. Bake for 40–50 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out with no more than a few moist crumbs.
Meanwhile, blend the cilantro, mint, chili, lemon juice, salt and 1 tbsp water to make the chutney. Add more water if needed until the sauce is spoonable.
Leave the handvo in the pan for 10 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm with the green chutney.
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