Aloo gobi with potatoes, cauliflower and cumin

Spices that let the vegetables shine

Aloo gobi literally means potato and cauliflower: two hearty vegetables seasoned together in this well-known North Indian dish. The exact combination varies from household to household and from region to region. Some versions include tomato and are juicier; this one is deliberately dry, so the cauliflower and potato pieces hold their shape. Cumin, coriander, turmeric and ginger provide a warm, earthy base. A little lemon at the end adds a refreshing contrast.

The way you heat the spices makes a difference. Cumin seeds go into hot oil first, so they become fragrant and release their flavor into the oil. Ginger and ground spices follow shortly after. Stir them in only briefly: ground spices can burn quickly and then taste bitter. Potatoes take longer to cook than cauliflower, so they go into the pan first. A splash of water and a lid help the vegetables cook through; then you uncover the pan to let any excess moisture evaporate.

Cut the potatoes into pieces about two centimeters across and divide the cauliflower into medium-sized florets. This helps them cook in about the same amount of time without the cauliflower falling apart. A sturdy, wide frying pan or sauté pan works well, as the vegetables can sit in a fairly even layer. If you use a smaller pan, cook over medium-low heat and turn the vegetables carefully; stirring too much makes the cauliflower fragile. Add extra water only if the bottom of the pan gets dry before the potatoes are cooked through.

In the Netherlands, locally grown cauliflower is widely available in summer and early autumn. Choose a firm head with compact, pale florets. Waxy potatoes generally hold their shape well; slightly floury potatoes also work, but need to be turned more carefully. No fresh ginger on hand? A small amount of ground ginger can do the trick, though it will have less of that fresh zing. You can reduce or omit the chili powder to taste; the other spices will still give the dish plenty of character.

Serve aloo gobi as a side with dal and roti, or serve it with rice and another vegetable dish. It also works well as part of a meal with several small dishes. Let leftovers cool within two hours and store them covered in the refrigerator; use within two days. Reheat them gently in a pan with a small splash of water, until everything is piping hot. The cauliflower will soften a little after storage, but the spiced flavor holds up well.