Kashmiri dum aloo with yogurt and fennel

Why the pan is covered tightly

Dum aloo is a dish from Kashmir in which small potatoes slowly cook in a spiced sauce. There are different regional and household ways of preparing it: the spices, the amount of yogurt and even how the potatoes are prepared can vary. This version draws on a familiar combination of yogurt, fennel, dried ginger and Kashmiri chili. Onion and garlic aren’t needed here, so the warm, anise-like fennel and fresh yogurt remain easy to recognize.

The potatoes are first boiled until tender, then pricked and fried until golden brown. The holes let the sauce soak through to the center as they simmer. Fry them gently, turning them regularly; the aim is a thin, firm crust, not a dark or hard exterior. Small potatoes that are roughly the same size are handy because they cook evenly. If you only have larger potatoes, cut them into equal pieces after boiling and keep an eye on the simmering time.

Kashmiri chili powder gives the sauce its distinctive red color and usually adds more color than heat. The level of heat varies by brand, so if in doubt, start with the smaller amount. Regular mild chili powder can be used instead, but it may give you a less vivid color or more heat. Fennel powder gives the sauce a soft, sweet anise flavor; dried ginger adds a warm, dry heat. Mustard oil is common in many preparations from the region and has a pronounced flavor. Neutral oil works too, though the result will be milder.

Yogurt makes the sauce creamy and gently tangy, but it can split if heated too quickly. So first whisk it smooth with the spices, then add it gradually over low heat while stirring continuously. After that, cover the pan and let everything simmer gently: the steam helps the potatoes cook through and the sauce cling to them. Use a tight-fitting lid and check from time to time that the sauce isn’t cooking dry; add a splash of water if needed.

Serve the dum aloo straight away with steamed basmati rice or flatbread, so there’s something to mop up the sauce with. A simple bowl of rice keeps the focus on the spiced potatoes. Once cooled, store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them over low heat with a small splash of water until piping hot; stir gently so the potatoes stay whole.