In kumror chhokka, tender pumpkin is paired with hearty chickpeas and the warm, slightly nutty aroma of panch phoron. This Bengali side dish has enough substance to serve alongside rice or roti.
Kumror chhokka is a Bengali dish in which kumro, or pumpkin, is stewed with legumes. The combination is simple, but it hinges on the contrast between the soft, sweet pumpkin and the firmer chickpeas. The spices add depth to that mild base, without the need for a heavy sauce. Serve it as a side dish in a meal with rice or roti; thanks to the chickpeas, it is also more filling than a vegetable dish without legumes.
Panch phoron is a Bengali blend of five whole spices: mustard seeds, nigella seeds, cumin, fennel seeds and fenugreek. The exact proportions can vary. In hot oil, the seeds begin to smell fragrant and crackle; this brief moment creates the aromatic base of the dish. Don’t let them get too dark, as fenugreek in particular can taste bitter then. If panch phoron isn’t available, mix equal parts of the five seeds. Using only cumin gives a tasty result, but not the same layered flavour.
Use a firm pumpkin that holds its shape reasonably well after cooking. Butternut squash is practical and available year-round; in autumn, more varieties of pumpkin are often available. Cut the pieces roughly the same size so they soften evenly. The aim is for a sauce that clings to the pumpkin, not a purée, so stir gently and check regularly towards the end. The cooking time depends on the variety and the size of the cubes.
Drained canned chickpeas are convenient to use. Cooked dried chickpeas work too; black kala chana gives a slightly firmer bite and works well in variations of the dish. Mustard oil adds a pronounced, peppery note. If it’s hard to find, use a neutral oil; even then, panch phoron remains the main flavouring. Add water gradually if the pan looks like it might cook dry, rather than using a lot of extra liquid straight away.
Spoon the chhokka alongside steamed rice or roti, perhaps with another vegetable dish and a fresh, simple salad. The pumpkin has its fullest flavour when warm, but leftovers are also good the next day. Cool them promptly after eating, store covered in the fridge and eat within two days. Reheat gently in a pan until piping hot throughout; add a splash of water if needed to loosen the sauce.
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the panch phoron and dried chilli and fry for 20–30 seconds, until the seeds crackle and smell fragrant.
Stir in the ginger and fry for 30 seconds. Add the turmeric and ground cumin and stir briefly; lower the heat if the spices look like they might catch.
Add the pumpkin and chickpeas to the pan. Add the salt and water and stir gently so the pumpkin cubes stay intact.
Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer gently, covered, for 15–20 minutes. Stir gently halfway through. The pumpkin should be tender but still hold its shape in recognisable pieces.
Remove the lid and simmer for another 3–6 minutes to reduce the liquid. Stir as little as possible; stop as soon as a thin layer of sauce clings to the pumpkin and there is no large amount of liquid left at the bottom. Taste and serve warm.
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