In this mild Kerala stew, tender pumpkin and black-eyed peas are coated in a light, creamy layer of coconut milk. Curry leaves and green chili add fragrance and a gentle kick, while a little coconut oil rounds everything off. Serve olan as a side dish with rice and spicier curries.
Olan is a dish from Kerala, in southwestern India, and is often mentioned as part of a sadya: a meal of several dishes that is served on festive occasions, among others. Recipes vary from household to household and from region to region. Ash gourd, also called winter melon, is often used; pumpkin is a handy alternative with a distinct sweetness. In this version, black-eyed peas add a firm bite and make the dish more filling without making the stew heavy.
The flavor is deliberately mild. Coconut milk softens the chili and coats the pumpkin, while curry leaves release a fragrant, citrusy aroma. The chili is there mainly for aroma and gentle warmth, not to make the whole dish hot. Coconut oil at the end brings out the coconut flavor. Use a small amount of full-fat coconut milk if possible; a whole can can make the sauce heavy and overpower the vegetables’ delicate flavor.
Dried black-eyed peas need to be soaked first, preferably for eight to twelve hours. This helps them cook more evenly and makes the cooking time easier to manage. Cook them separately until tender but not falling apart. Pumpkin takes much less time: cut it into fairly large pieces and let it cook gently in just a little water. Boiling hard or stirring a lot can quickly turn it to purée. Add the coconut milk only at the end and just heat it through; boiling it vigorously can make the sauce less smooth.
Choose a firm pumpkin, such as butternut squash or another variety that holds its shape when cut. Butternut squash is generally available year-round; other types of pumpkin are more widely available in autumn. No curry leaves? Leave them out rather than replacing them with a large amount of another herb: the flavor will change, but the stew will still be good. Fresh green chili can also be left out for a completely mild version. It’s best not to use coconut cream, which is much more concentrated than coconut milk.
Spoon olan alongside steamed rice and serve with spicier curries or vegetable dishes. The tender pumpkin is a gentle counterpoint to bold spices, and the peas make the dish more substantial. Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container within two hours and use within three days. Reheat gently in a pan; add a splash of water if needed and stir carefully so the pumpkin stays intact.
Soak the black-eyed peas in plenty of cold water for 8–12 hours. Drain and rinse them.
Put the peas in a pan and add plenty of fresh water. Bring to a boil and simmer gently until tender but still whole, about 35–50 minutes. Drain.
Put the pumpkin, green chili, salt and 150 ml water in a large pan. Bring to a boil, cover and cook gently for 10–15 minutes. Stir as little as possible; the pumpkin should soften but hold its shape.
Add the cooked peas, coconut milk and curry leaves. Heat for 5 minutes over low heat without letting the stew come to a vigorous boil. Taste and adjust the salt.
Remove the pan from the heat and gently stir in the coconut oil. Serve warm.
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