ABOUT THIS RECIPESweet, warmly spiced and hearty
Dalna is a Bengali way of cooking vegetables in a spiced, fairly thick sauce; the exact combination varies from household to household and from one vegetable to another. In this version, sweet potato takes center stage. The name mishti alur refers to sweet potato, but the dish is savory: tomato, ginger and warming spices balance its natural sweetness. Peas add a juicy, slightly sweet bite without making the sauce heavy.
Sweet potatoes are available year-round. Choose firm ones without soft spots and cut them into chunks of about three centimeters. That size is large enough to hold together while simmering, but small enough to cook through in the sauce. Variety and freshness affect the cooking time; after twelve minutes, pierce a chunk with the tip of a knife and give them a few more minutes if needed. Stir gently, as the cooked flesh can break apart quickly.
The spices are briefly heated in oil before the tomato and water go in. This brings out the flavor of the cumin seeds and ginger. Don’t fry ground spices dry: a splash of water keeps them from burning and turning bitter. Mustard oil has a pronounced flavor that works well in Bengali cooking. Otherwise, use a neutral oil; the flavor will be milder. The amount of chili powder is modest, so the sauce stays spicy without overpowering the sweet potato.
Tomato forms the base of the sauce and adds enough freshness that no extra acidity is needed. Use ripe fresh tomatoes for a looser sauce, or canned tomatoes if fresh ones lack flavor; let the sauce reduce for a few extra minutes. Frozen peas can go straight into the pan. Add them near the end so they stay green and don’t turn mushy. If the sauce gets too thick before the sweet potato is cooked, add a small splash of water at a time.
Serve the dalna with white rice or roti, which soak up the spiced sauce nicely. A simple vegetable dish or fresh salad can go alongside, but isn’t essential. Spoon the curry out gently so the chunks of sweet potato stay intact. Once cooled, store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them thoroughly in a pan over low heat; add a splash of water if needed. Stir as little as possible to keep the soft pieces whole.