Tender chicken in a creamy coconut sauce gets depth from toasted coconut and warm spices. Tamarind keeps the sauce lively, while curry leaves add a fresh, fragrant note. Delicious with rice or appam.
Malabar refers to the coastal region in northern Kerala, in southern India. The cuisine there isn’t based on one fixed recipe, but coconut, spices, and fish or meat appear in all kinds of combinations. In this chicken curry, coconut plays two roles: coconut milk makes the sauce creamy, while freshly grated coconut becomes nutty and lightly sweet when toasted. The combination adds more flavor and texture than coconut milk alone.
Toast the coconut slowly in a dry frying pan, stirring constantly. First it becomes more moist, then turns golden brown in spots; take the pan off the heat in time, as the coconut will continue to cook for a little while. Blending some of it with a little coconut milk thickens the sauce without flour or cream. The rest can go into the pan or be sprinkled over the dish as a little visible topping. Unsweetened dried coconut can be used instead, but it browns faster and is usually less juicy-tasting than fresh coconut.
Onion, ginger, and garlic make the savory base. Ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, and chili powder add warmth without letting any one spice overpower the sauce. Curry leaves are briefly fried in hot oil to release their fragrance; fresh leaves work best. If you can’t find them, leave them out rather than replacing them with curry powder: it has a different flavor. Tamarind brings a sour counterpoint to the coconut. Start with a small amount, taste at the end, and add more only if the sauce still tastes flat.
Bone-in chicken stays juicy as it simmers and adds extra flavor to the sauce; boneless chicken thighs are handy if you want to serve sooner. Give them less time and check that the chicken is cooked through. If the sauce is too thick, stir in a splash of water; if it’s thin, simmer it gently uncovered for a few more minutes. Cool any leftovers quickly, store covered in the refrigerator, and reheat thoroughly within two days. Serve with rice to soak up the sauce, or with appam, a soft pancake made from fermented rice batter. A fresh bowl of cucumber makes an easy, cooling counterpoint.
Toast the grated coconut in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat. Stir regularly until the coconut is golden brown in several places, about 5–8 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly. Blend half with about 100 ml coconut milk into a coarse paste; set the rest aside.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over medium-high heat. Add the mustard seeds. As soon as they start to pop, add the curry leaves and onion. Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the onion is soft and lightly golden.
Stir in the ginger and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, chili powder, and black pepper. Stir for 30 seconds, until the spices are fragrant.
Add the chicken and 1 teaspoon salt. Toss to coat the pieces in the spice mixture and cook for 4 minutes. Stir in the blended coconut, the remaining coconut milk, and the water. Bring gently to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer covered for 25–35 minutes. Turn the chicken halfway through; boneless chicken thigh fillets usually need less time.
Meanwhile, rinse the rice until the water runs mostly clear. Put it in a pan with 450 ml water and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook covered according to the package directions. Then let it stand, covered, for 5 minutes and fluff with a fork.
Stir the tamarind paste into the curry. Taste and add more salt or a little tamarind if needed. If the sauce is thin, simmer the curry gently uncovered for a few more minutes. Serve with the rice and the reserved toasted coconut.
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