This South Indian chicken curry gets its bold flavor from toasted spices, fennel and black pepper. The sauce is thick and spicy, with tamarind adding a subtle sour note. Serve it with rice so none of the masala goes to waste.
Chettinad refers to a region in Tamil Nadu, in southern India, and the cuisine there is known for its bold use of spices. Black pepper, fennel and dried chili take center stage in this curry. Coriander seeds and cumin add depth to the masala; cinnamon and cloves bring a warm, woody undertone. The result is spicy and peppery, but it doesn’t have to be extremely hot: the amount and type of dried chili play a big part in determining the heat.
Toasting the spices is a small step with a big impact. Use a dry skillet over medium-low heat and shake the seeds regularly; take them out of the pan as soon as they become fragrant. They burn quickly, and burnt spices taste bitter. Let them cool briefly before grinding. Blending the ground spices with onion, ginger and garlic into a paste helps the masala cling to the chicken. Then fry the paste slowly in oil: this lets excess moisture evaporate and rounds out the flavor.
Bone-in chicken adds extra flavor to the sauce as it simmers and stays juicy, but takes a little longer than boneless chicken thighs. If using boneless chicken, cut it into large pieces and shorten the simmering time; check that the chicken is cooked through before adding the tamarind. Tamarind paste varies in strength by brand. If in doubt, start with a little less and taste at the end: the sauce should have a light, fresh tartness, not taste sour. Curry leaves give it a distinctive, spicy aroma; if they’re not available, you can leave them out, but don’t replace them with extra pepper.
The sauce here shouldn’t be creamy or thin. Cover the pan and cook the chicken until done, then, if needed, simmer the sauce briefly uncovered until it clings to the chicken. Basmati rice is a practical accompaniment; dosa also goes well with the hearty sauce. Once cooled, cover leftovers and store them in the refrigerator; eat within two days. Reheat the curry until piping hot throughout, adding a splash of water if the sauce has thickened in the refrigerator.
Toast the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns, chilies, cinnamon and cloves in a dry skillet over medium-low heat. Shake the pan regularly. Take the spices off the heat as soon as they become fragrant, after about 2–3 minutes, and let them cool.
Grind the cooled spices finely. Put them in a blender with the onion, ginger, garlic, turmeric and about 100 ml of the water. Blend into a thick paste, as smooth as possible.
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the curry leaves and fry for about 30 seconds. Stir in the spice paste and fry for 10–12 minutes, stirring regularly so it doesn’t stick to the pan.
Add the tomato and cook for 4–5 minutes, until soft. Add the chicken and salt to the pan and toss to coat the pieces all over with masala. Cook for 4 minutes.
Pour the remaining water into the pan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cover the pan. Simmer the chicken for 35–45 minutes, until the meat is cooked through and comes easily off the bone. Stir occasionally and add a little extra water only if the sauce looks likely to stick to the pan.
Stir the tamarind paste with a spoonful of warm sauce to loosen it, then mix it into the curry. Simmer gently, uncovered, for another 5 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed; simmer the sauce longer to reduce it if it is still very thin.
Meanwhile, cook the basmati rice according to the package directions. Serve the curry with the rice.
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