Zuppa inglese: Italian layered cake with custard

The colour and aroma of alchermes

Zuppa inglese is an Italian dessert made with layers of biscuits, custard and often chocolate cream. The name literally means ‘English soup’, but the dish isn’t a soup, and the name alone doesn’t clearly tell us where it originated. There are several versions: one uses savoiardi, another sponge cake, and the balance of vanilla and chocolate cream varies too. This version keeps things simple with vanilla custard and a chocolate layer, alternating with savoiardi dipped in alchermes.

Alchermes is a strikingly red Italian liqueur with a spicy, floral aroma. Its scent is pronounced, so dip the biscuits briefly: they should absorb some liquid without becoming soggy. Not every liquor store carries alchermes. As a substitute, you can mix 100 ml water with 30 ml grenadine syrup and a teaspoon of rose water. This makes a sweet, red-tinted syrup, but it isn’t alchermes and has a less spicy flavour. It’s best not to use just any liqueur without first considering whether its flavour goes with vanilla and chocolate.

Smooth custard starts with milk that’s hot but not boiling vigorously. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and cornstarch until smooth, then gradually add the warm milk; this warms the yolks evenly. Next, cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring, until it thickens. Divide the hot custard straight away and stir the chocolate into one portion so it melts without needing another pan. Keep stirring both portions until smooth, then cover them as they cool with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface. This helps prevent a skin from forming.

Savoiardi are light, dry Italian biscuits that absorb liquid quickly. So dip them one at a time, and only briefly, in the liqueur or syrup. If you can’t find savoiardi, plain sponge cake works too; avoid biscuits with a thick coating of sugar or filling. A glass dish shows off the layers, but a deep serving dish is just as practical. Make the zuppa inglese at least four hours ahead, so the biscuits soften and the custard is firm enough to serve.

Serve the dessert straight from the fridge, in generous spoonfuls or neat portions from the dish. The cool, creamy custard contrasts with the soft biscuits, while the chocolate rounds out the floral aroma of the liqueur. Keep leftovers covered in the fridge and use within two days; don’t leave the dessert at room temperature for an extended period. For a polished presentation, you can assemble the layers in glasses, breaking the biscuits into pieces if needed to make them fit.