Zucchini Rösti with Herbed Yogurt and Pickled Red Onion

Crisp at the edges, fresh on top

Zucchini and potato complement each other here: potato gives the rösti structure and a crisp exterior, while zucchini keeps the center tender and lightly juicy. Grating and squeezing the zucchini well prevents the mixture from steaming in the pan. Use a clean tea towel or sturdy paper towels and squeeze it over the sink; often more liquid comes out than you expect. Grate the potato just before cooking, so it has less time to discolor.

The rösti is cooked thin in a frying pan, rather than as a thick potato cake. This gives it more contact with the hot pan and, as a result, more browned, crispy edges. Medium-high heat is more practical than high heat: the outside browns gradually while the center cooks through. Let the first side set firmly before turning the rösti. A large plate helps you flip it in one motion. If your pan is smaller, make two rösti and cook them one at a time; don’t crowd the pan.

An egg and a small amount of flour help hold the grated vegetables together without making the result heavy. Toss the mixture again just before cooking, as liquid can collect at the bottom of the bowl. If the zucchini is very large and watery, squeeze it extra well. A firm, medium-sized zucchini is usually easier to work with. Dill goes well with the fresh yogurt, but finely chopped chives or parsley can be used instead. Use full-fat yogurt for a creamy sauce, or Greek yogurt if you want a thicker, spoonable texture.

The red onion quickly takes on a little tang and sweetness from the vinegar, sugar and salt. Slice the onion thinly so it softens quickly and stays pleasantly fresh; the flavor becomes more pronounced the longer it pickles. Lemon zest and juice in the yogurt complement it and brighten the whole dish. Taste the sauce before serving: yogurt varies in tartness, so sometimes an extra squeeze of lemon is just right, and sometimes it isn’t needed.

Serve the rösti with the sauce and onion on the side or on top, so the crust stays crisp until it reaches the table. A simple green salad makes lunch complete; keep the dressing light, as the yogurt and pickled onion already add freshness. Leftover rösti can be covered and stored in the fridge, then reheated in a hot frying pan until piping hot all the way through. This usually does more for the crust than reheating it in the microwave.