Zabaglione with Marsala and Berries

The art of whisking until light

Zabaglione is a light Italian custard made by heating egg yolks, sugar and Marsala together while whisking constantly. The ingredient list is short, so the proportions and technique determine the result. Marsala gives it a mellow, full sweetness with a wine-like aroma; berries add freshness and a juicy contrast. Serve the custard warm, while the foam is still light.

A bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water gives you more control than direct heat. The bottom of the bowl should not touch the water, so the mixture warms gradually. Keep whisking around the bottom and sides of the bowl so the yolks don’t set in one spot. Too much heat or even a brief pause in whisking can lead to grainy bits. The custard is ready when it is pale, thick and foamy. You can use a kitchen thermometer to check that the mixture reaches 71 °C; remove the bowl from the pan straight away.

A sweet Marsala is best, as it complements the classic, dessert-like flavour. A dry Marsala gives a less sweet, slightly sharper result. It isn’t a like-for-like swap in terms of flavour, but it works if you want to tone down the sweetness. Don’t use a wine you’d rather leave out of the dish entirely: because it’s heated only briefly, the alcohol is not guaranteed to evaporate completely. The wine is a main ingredient here, not just an aromatic addition.

Strawberries, raspberries and blueberries go well with the warm custard. They’re often at their best in summer, but feel free to use whatever ripe fresh fruit is available; one type is enough, too. Cut larger strawberries into bite-sized pieces and leave small berries whole, so the contrast between the soft custard and juicy berries stays clear. Wash and dry the fruit just before serving to keep excess moisture from collecting in the glasses.

Zabaglione is best straight after whisking. Serve it in small glasses or bowls so the warm custard doesn’t have to sit for long. Put the fruit in the bottom or spoon it on top. Once cooled, the custard loses some of its lightness and is less suitable for reheating. So plan on small portions and whisk the dessert just before serving; it only needs a few minutes of attention at the stove.