ABOUT THIS RECIPESmoky Eggplant, Bright Dressing
Yam makhuea yao is a Thai salad with long eggplant in the starring role. The word yam refers to a type of salad often marked by a spicy, sour dressing and fresh additions; recipes vary from cook to cook and region to region. Here, it’s all about the combination of soft, smoky flesh with lime, fish sauce, chili, shallot and herbs. Egg is a common hearty addition to this salad, not just a garnish: its mild, creamy yolk tempers the sharp dressing.
Long Asian eggplants are usually slimmer and cook more evenly than the large, round varieties. You can find them at Asian grocery stores and some greengrocers. When local eggplants are in season, usually in the warmer months, a firm European eggplant works well too. If needed, cut it in half lengthwise so the grill can reach the flesh. The salad is best as soon as the eggplant is cooked and still lukewarm; that’s when its soft flesh soaks up the dressing well.
The charred skin adds smokiness, while the flesh underneath turns almost creamy. Grill the eggplants whole, turning them regularly so the skin blisters all over and the inside softens. An oven broiler is practical; keep a close eye on the eggplants, as the distance from the heating element determines how quickly they brown. Let them cool briefly after grilling before removing the skin. You can leave a few small pieces of skin on for extra smokiness.
Lime, fish sauce and a little palm sugar come together in a dressing that is sour, salty and slightly sweet all at once. Taste it after mixing: limes vary in juiciness and sharpness, so add a little extra lime juice or fish sauce if needed. Thai bird’s-eye chili is potent; use less for a milder salad, or remove the seeds. No palm sugar on hand? A small amount of brown sugar will also dissolve in the dressing.
Serve the salad as a side with rice and grilled fish or chicken, or alongside other Thai dishes. Fold in the herbs just before serving so the mint and cilantro stay fresh. You can prepare the salad ahead: grill the eggplant and cook the eggs earlier, but keep the components covered in the refrigerator and mix them with the dressing and herbs shortly before serving. Serve the eggs chilled or at room temperature; don’t leave them out of the refrigerator for more than two hours.