ABOUT THIS RECIPECreamy Beans, Bright Lemon
White beans give this soup body without the need for cream. Blending some of the beans with the broth makes the base thick and smooth; the rest stay whole for a hearty bite. Cannellini beans are soft and creamy, but large lima beans or regular canned white beans work too. Use two cans and drain them well, so the liquid in the can doesn’t unintentionally change the flavor or thickness.
Leeks make a gentle, slightly sweet base. Slice in the light green part too if it looks fresh, but wash the rings carefully: grit can easily get trapped between the layers. Cooking the leeks slowly over medium heat softens them without browning them and turning them bitter. Leeks are usually widely available and often come from the cooler months; outside their season, use an extra onion for the same mild flavor.
Add the lemon only once the soup is cooked. The zest adds fragrance, while the juice lifts the flavor of the beans and broth; add it gradually and taste as you go, since lemons vary in tartness. Yogurt makes the soup fresh and creamy when served. Regular full-fat yogurt works well, but Greek yogurt gives you a thicker spoonful. Don’t stir the yogurt into a pot that’s still boiling hard: a spoonful on each bowl stays smooth and distinct.
Sage crisps up quickly in a little oil. Keep an eye on the leaves and take them out of the pan as soon as the edges are firm; sage fried too dark tastes bitter. The oil takes on a herby aroma at the same time, making a lovely contrast with the lemon. You can easily make the chili oil here by letting chili flakes steep briefly in warm oil. Use less for a milder soup, or leave out the chili if you want the sage to shine.
Serve the soup right away with toasted bread, so it stays crisp alongside the soft beans. For extra texture, you can dip some of the bread into the soup at the table instead of putting it in the bowls beforehand. Store leftover soup without the yogurt or crispy sage, covered in the fridge, and eat within two days. Reheat only the amount you need until the soup is piping hot throughout; add the lemon, yogurt and crispy leaves afterward.