ABOUT THIS RECIPETart, creamy and golden-brown
This lunch is all about three distinct flavors: earthy, savory oyster mushrooms, creamy Taleggio and pear with a fresh tang of vinegar. Together, they make a rich filling that doesn’t feel heavy. The pear is thinly sliced so it fits neatly in the sandwich and its acidity spreads across the cheese and mushrooms. Hearty sourdough or another robust bread holds the juicy filling together; very airy bread will soften more quickly.
Oyster mushrooms cook best when they have room in the pan. Tear large ones into strips and lay them in a single layer in a thoroughly hot frying pan. At first, they release moisture; give them time to cook off that moisture and brown before turning them. Avoid overcrowding the pan so the edges can color rather than the mushrooms mostly steaming. A little oil helps with cooking, but don’t add too much: the mushrooms should brown, not turn greasy.
A quick brine is all the pear needs. A mixture of vinegar, water, sugar and salt gives thin slices a fresh flavor in about 15 minutes, while leaving them with some bite. Choose a firm pear that is ripe but not mealy. A Conference pear works well; another firm eating pear will do, too. The slices don’t need to be stored under long-term preserving conditions: this is a quick preparation for immediate use, not a batch for preserving.
Taleggio melts softly and has a distinct, savory flavor of its own. Slice the cheese thinly so it warms evenly. The rind is edible, but you can cut it off if you prefer a milder flavor. If Taleggio isn’t available, use another characterful cheese that melts well, such as Fontina; the result will be different, but still creamy. Don’t leave the pickled pear too wet after draining, or moisture will seep into the bread.
Serve the sandwich as soon as the cheese is soft and the bread is crisp. A simple green salad with a tart dressing goes well with it and keeps lunch light; there’s no need for extra sweet chutney, since the pear already adds a fruity note. If you’re making lunch for one, you can halve the quantities. Cut the sandwich in half just before eating so the warm cheese and juicy mushrooms stay in place.