ABOUT THIS RECIPESmoky, fresh and with a little bite
The base of this main-course salad is waxy potatoes: they stay firm enough to toss after cooking, but still absorb the dressing. Cut the potatoes into equal-sized pieces so they cook at the same time. Drain them as soon as a knife slips in easily, then leave them to steam-dry briefly. Toss them with the dressing while they’re still warm; that helps the mustard, apple cider vinegar and oil coat them more evenly. The potatoes can then cool to lukewarm, but there’s no need to let them get cold.
Smoked mackerel has a pronounced, savoury flavour and a soft, oily texture. Mustard and apple cider vinegar balance it, while fennel adds a juicy, light crunch. Slice the fennel as thinly as possible with a sharp knife or mandoline; thicker pieces can taste tough and overpowering alongside the soft potatoes. Dill complements fennel’s fresh, anise-like notes. Fold in the fish gently at the very end, so you keep some chunky pieces and the mackerel doesn’t fall apart completely.
Red onion takes on a fresher, milder flavour in a simple brine of vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Leave the rings to stand for at least fifteen minutes while the potatoes cook. Slice them thinly so they take on the flavour quickly. Use apple cider vinegar for the dressing and the onion; red wine vinegar works too, but gives a slightly deeper flavour. No mandoline? A sharp knife works just fine for the fennel, as long as you keep the slices thin. A little fennel frond can be used in place of some of the dill.
Serve the salad lukewarm as a main course, perhaps with crusty bread and a green salad. Taste before adding extra salt: smoked mackerel and pickled onion already bring plenty of flavour. To get ahead, cook the potatoes and prepare the onion a few hours in advance; cover and refrigerate them, then bring the potatoes to room temperature before mixing. Refrigerate leftovers promptly and eat them within a day; the fennel will become less crisp over time. This salad is best freshly tossed and doesn’t need to be reheated.