ABOUT THIS RECIPESweet, fresh and crunchy
Peas need little to taste delicious, but their sweetness comes through best when they aren’t cooked for too long. A quick blanch keeps them juicy and firm, with a bright green color. Fresh peas are mainly available in the Netherlands in late spring and summer; frozen peas are a practical choice outside that season and don’t need to be thawed first. Cooking time can vary depending on their size, so taste one after two minutes: it should be tender but still have a slight bite.
Lemon zest adds fragrant freshness without making the peas wet or sour. Mint goes well with it, while olive oil brings the flavors together and gives the peas a light sheen. Use only the yellow part of the lemon peel; the white pith underneath can taste bitter. Chop the mint just before using it so the leaves don’t get bruised and turn dark unnecessarily. If you don’t have mint, finely chopped dill works too, though it makes the dish a little more herbaceous and less cool-tasting.
The buckwheat adds a toasted, nutty counterpoint to the soft peas and yogurt. Use raw buckwheat groats, not pre-cooked kasha: the latter is already toasted and won’t crisp up in a dry pan in the same way. Keep the pan moving as you toast the groats, and remove them as soon as they smell fragrant and turn golden brown in places. Let them cool before scattering them over the dish; that way they’ll stay crunchy. Sesame seeds can replace the buckwheat, but toast them for less time and keep an eye on them, as small seeds color quickly.
The yogurt is deliberately mildly spicy, not so hot that it overpowers the fresh mint. Stir the chili flakes into the full-fat yogurt and add the lemon juice a little at a time: some kinds of yogurt are already quite tangy. Adjust the amount of chili to taste, or use a pinch of mild paprika for a gentler version. Spoon the yogurt onto the platter or add it in small dollops so that not every pea is coated.
Serve the peas warm alongside roasted fish, chicken or a savory vegetable tart; with bread and an extra spoonful of yogurt, they also make a light lunch. Scatter the buckwheat over just before serving, otherwise it will absorb moisture. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and use within two days. Keep the buckwheat separate and add it later; gently reheat the peas or serve them cold, as cooking them for too long again will make them soft.