ABOUT THIS RECIPEBitter, juicy and golden brown
This lunch salad is all about contrast: mushrooms with deep, savoury flavours alongside fresh, sweet orange and the slightly bitter bite of radicchio. Cooked barley brings everything together and makes the dish substantial enough for lunch. Pearl barley is best; it stays pleasantly springy after cooking. Barley absorbs the vinaigrette well without becoming so soft that the salad feels mushy.
Oyster mushrooms and chestnut mushrooms are a handy combination. Oyster mushrooms brown nicely at the edges and are easy to tear into strips; chestnut mushrooms have a meaty bite. Mushrooms are available all year round, while radicchio is often easier to find in the colder months. Choose a firm head with crisp leaves. If radicchio isn’t available, replace it with red endive; it’s usually a little milder and smaller, so use a bit more to taste.
A large, hot frying pan is more important than extra oil. Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture: if the pan is too crowded, the moisture is released and they’ll steam rather than brown. So cook them in batches and give them plenty of room. Wait until the underside is browned before turning them. Those browned edges add a roasted, savoury flavour that stands up well to the orange.
The dressing is made with orange juice, mustard and olive oil. Mustard helps the oil and juice emulsify and adds a gentle sharpness. Taste it before tossing the salad: oranges vary in sweetness and juiciness. If needed, add a little more mustard or a splash of water to balance the dressing and thin it enough to lightly coat the barley. Salt and pepper bring the flavours into focus; extra vinegar usually isn’t needed if the juice is fresh enough.
Toss the salad just before eating so the radicchio stays crisp and the barley doesn’t soak up all the dressing. Serve it on its own for lunch, or with some hearty bread. You can also prepare ahead: cook the barley and fry the mushrooms earlier, cover and store them in the fridge, and cut the orange just before serving. Refrigerate prepared components within two hours and use them preferably the next day; gently reheat the mushrooms and barley, then toss with the cold leaves and orange.