ABOUT THIS RECIPEJuicy sweetness with earthy lentils
Green lentils stay firm enough after cooking to be briefly fried in a pan. That makes them well suited to a warm side dish: they absorb flavor without quickly turning to mush. Cook them in plenty of water and start checking after about 18 minutes; the exact time varies depending on the variety and how long the lentils have been in the package. Drain them as soon as they are tender but still have a little bite. Salt the cooking water, but don’t add vinegar: acidity can keep the lentils firm for longer and make the cooking time less predictable.
Grapes add juiciness and a touch of sweetness to the dish. In the oven, they heat through and some of the skins burst, allowing their juice to mingle with the olive oil on the baking sheet. Red or black seedless grapes add lovely color, but green grapes work too and often taste a little fresher. Grapes are available year-round; when they’re in peak season in late summer and fall, you can often find aromatic table grapes. Choose firm ones if possible, so they don’t all fall apart while roasting.
Sage has a bold, herbal flavor that pairs well with lentils and the sweeter grapes. Briefly frying a few leaves in hot olive oil makes them crisp and infuses the oil with their aroma. Remove them from the pan before cooking the shallot: sage can darken quickly and taste bitter. Then gently cook the shallot and add the lentils once it’s translucent. This keeps the onion mild and coats the lentils in a thin layer of flavorful oil.
Red wine vinegar keeps everything fresh and brings the sweet and earthy flavors together. Stir it into the warm lentils and taste before adding more; the grapes release juice and acidity of their own. Hazelnuts add a satisfying crunch. Toast them in a dry skillet and chop them coarsely so they don’t get lost among the lentils. Walnuts are a good alternative, with a slightly more bitter flavor.
Serve the dish warm, so the lentils hold their shape and the grape juices still bind well with the oil and vinegar. It goes well with roasted squash, cauliflower or carrots, as well as alongside roast chicken or pork. If making it ahead, cover and refrigerate the lentils and grapes, then reheat them gently; add the crispy sage and hazelnuts just before serving so they keep their crunch.