Vietnamese Pomelo Salad with Shrimp and Herbs

Citrus with a Savory Edge

Pomelo is less tart and often a little sweeter than grapefruit. Its firm flesh holds its shape among the herbs and shrimp, making the salad juicy without turning soggy. Peel the pomelo generously: remove not only the thick rind but as much of the white pith as possible. It can taste bitter. Pull the flesh into bite-sized pieces over a bowl so you don’t lose any juice. A large pomelo will usually yield enough flesh for four small starters; the exact weight varies from fruit to fruit.

The dressing brings together sour, salty, sweet, and spicy flavors. Lime juice brightens the pomelo, fish sauce adds depth, and a little sugar rounds out the sharp flavors. Taste the dressing before tossing it with the salad: pomelos vary in sweetness, and limes vary in tartness. Add a little extra lime or sugar if needed, but keep the dressing bold; the fruit and herbs will dilute the flavor. Use fish sauce to taste, and don’t simply replace it with soy sauce, which has a different, less pronounced salty flavor.

Cook the shrimp over high heat in a hot skillet with a little oil. Pat them dry first so they brown better and release less moisture. Take them off the heat as soon as they turn opaque and feel just firm; overcooked shrimp become tough. Let them cool briefly before mixing them with the fruit. Fry the shallot separately and gently in oil until the rings are golden brown and crisp. Remove them from the pan as soon as they start to color: they’ll continue cooking in the hot oil.

Mint and cilantro give the salad a fresh, green aroma. Use mostly the leaves, and tear larger ones roughly so they don’t get bruised. Red onion adds a sharp bite; slice it very thinly and briefly rinse the strips in cold water if you want to mellow its flavor. If you don’t have pomelo, firm grapefruit can be an alternative. It’s usually more bitter and juicier, so remove the pith carefully and allow for extra moisture.

Toss the dressing with the salad just before serving. That way, the herbs stay fresh, the pomelo stays firm, and the shrimp keep their texture. Divide the salad among small plates or shallow bowls and scatter the peanuts and crispy shallots over the top at the last minute so they stay crunchy. Serve as a starter, with a few small lettuce leaves underneath if you like; for a light lunch, make the portions larger. Because of the fresh herbs and cooked shrimp, this dish is best enjoyed right after it’s made.