Tuscan panzanella with tomatoes and stale bread

Bread that soaks up the tomato juices

Panzanella is a well-known Tuscan salad in which stale bread is a full-fledged part of the dish, not a crunchy topping. Ripe tomatoes bring moisture and a sweet-tart flavor; red onion adds sharpness, and basil a fresh, herbal aroma. Olive oil rounds out the flavors, while wine vinegar keeps everything lively. Serve the salad as an antipasto or light first course, preferably at room temperature. As a starter, a serving of about a quarter of this recipe is suitable; alongside more dishes at the table, you can make the portions smaller.

The best tomatoes are ripe and fragrant, but still firm enough to cut into wedges. In the Netherlands, tomatoes are generally at their most flavorful in summer, when locally grown ones are plentiful. Use different colors only if they taste ripe; color alone doesn’t tell you much. Very watery tomatoes can quickly make the salad soggy. That’s why stale country bread with a firm, dense crumb works well: it soaks up the juices without falling apart right away. Airy bread can work too, but moisten it extra carefully.

The aim isn’t to serve the bread bone-dry or soaked through. A brief moistening softens the crumb, and gently squeezing it removes excess water. The bread can then soak up the tomato juices and dressing. Let the salad rest briefly, then taste it again: bread softens the acidity and absorbs salt, so sometimes a small extra splash of vinegar or pinch of salt is needed. Don’t cut the tomatoes too small; larger pieces hold their shape and are less likely to turn to mush when tossed.

Red onion can be quite sharp raw. Slicing it thinly makes the flavor more even, and a brief soak in cold water mellows its sharpness without taking away its flavor. If you don’t have red onion, a small amount of thinly sliced shallot can be used instead. Red wine vinegar gives a pronounced, savory note; mild white wine vinegar is a useful alternative. Use extra-virgin olive oil whose flavor you enjoy, but keep the amount balanced so the tomato and basil remain recognizable.

Panzanella is best shortly after mixing, once the bread has absorbed the dressing but still has some texture. So don’t make it hours ahead. You can store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them the next day; the bread will be softer and the salad will have less bite. Don’t leave a portion at room temperature for a long time, especially on a hot day. Serve with grilled vegetables, beans or a simple omelet if you’d like to make it a more substantial meal.