Turkish zucchini börek with dill and white cheese

The art of a dry filling

Kabaklı börek means börek with zucchini: a savory pastry dish that brings together thin yufka and a juicy vegetable filling. Börek comes in many forms in Turkey, from rolled bites to large, layered baked dishes. This version is a practical oven-baked casserole; the combination of zucchini, white cheese and dill makes for a soft, savory center against crisp pastry layers. Beyaz peynir is a Turkish white cheese, often firm and salty. Feta works well as an alternative here, but taste the filling before adding extra salt.

Zucchini contains a lot of moisture, which is exactly what you need to pay attention to when making this börek. Letting the grated vegetable sit briefly with salt and then squeezing it firmly removes moisture before it can reach the yufka. Use a clean tea towel or squeeze the zucchini in batches over the sink. The vegetable doesn’t need to be completely dry: a little moisture left behind keeps the filling tender, while excess moisture can make the bottom dense and soggy.

Yufka is a thin, pliable dough that dries out quickly once the package is open. Keep the sheets covered with a clean cloth while you work. A thin layer of oil between the sheets helps them bake separately and gives the top color and crispness. Pour the milk-and-egg mixture evenly over the layers so the edges also get enough moisture and don’t dry out. Score the top into portions before the dish goes into the oven, so you’re less likely to break up the crisp crust later.

Zucchini is most widely available in the Netherlands from summer to early fall, but you can make this dish all year round. Choose firm ones without soft spots and grate them coarsely so the filling still has some texture after squeezing. Dill goes well with both the mild vegetable and the salty cheese. If you don’t have dill, you can use parsley; the flavor will be less anise-like and a little greener. Don’t leave out the cheese: it provides a savory counterpoint and helps hold the filling together.

Serve the börek warm with tomato wedges and yogurt mixed with garlic, lemon and dill. This fresh, slightly tart touch makes the rich pastry layers feel less heavy. The dish works as a main course for four or as lunch for more people, with a green salad on the side if you want a more substantial meal. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them in the oven so the top turns crisp again; the pastry will soften in the microwave.