Turkish Kumpir with Spiced White Beans

The potato as a hearty base

Kumpir is a Turkish street-food classic: a large potato baked in its skin, split open, with the flesh loosened with butter and cheese. That soft, creamy inside is the base; the skin holds everything together and adds a little structure. The toppings can vary. In this version, warm white beans make for a filling, savoury layer, while pickled red cabbage adds acidity and crunch.

Large, floury potatoes work best here. In the oven, the skin becomes firm while the inside cooks through gently. Prick the potatoes with a fork beforehand so steam can escape, and give them enough time: they’re ready when a knife slides into the centre without resistance. A microwave is quicker, but won’t give you the same dry, firm skin. If you don’t have large potatoes, use two medium ones per person and allow for a shorter baking time.

Butter makes the potato flesh soft and smooth; grated cheese melts into it and brings it together into a creamy filling. Kaşar is a good choice if available. Young Gouda works too, as does mild cheddar; it’s best to avoid very mature cheese, which can easily overpower the potato. Stir the butter and cheese into the hot flesh, but leave the skin intact. This keeps the potato firm enough to top with the beans and cabbage.

The beans are warmed briefly with onion, garlic and pul biber. These Turkish chilli flakes bring a fruity, mild-to-medium heat; the level of heat varies by type, so feel free to start with less. Canned white beans are practical: rinse and drain them before adding them to the pan. Red kidney beans work too, but they’re firmer and change the soft contrast. The red cabbage is quickly pickled with vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Thinly slicing the cabbage helps it take on the flavour quickly; red wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar can replace the white vinegar.

Serve the potatoes as soon as they’re filled, with the cabbage on the side or piled generously on top, so everyone can choose their own balance of creamy, spicy and fresh. Parsley adds a green, herby note. For a more substantial meal, serve with a simple green salad or extra pickled vegetables. Refrigerate leftover beans and potato, covered, within two hours and eat within three days; reheat until piping hot throughout. Store the cabbage separately to keep it crunchy.