ABOUT THIS RECIPELigurian pie with a surprising centre
Torta pasqualina is a savoury Easter pie from Liguria, the coastal region around Genoa. Spinach or chard makes up the green base; ricotta, Parmesan and marjoram bring creaminess, saltiness and a gentle floral note to the filling. The whole eggs nestled in the filling are immediately visible when you cut into the pie. That makes it distinctive and also gives it a firmer, protein-rich centre.
The pie is well suited to spring, when young spinach and chard are widely available, though you can make it all year round with fresh spinach. Chard is a good substitute: use the finely chopped stems too, but give them a little extra time in the pan before adding the leaves. Frozen spinach works as well, provided you let it thaw completely and squeeze it out well. Vegetables that are too wet will make the ricotta filling runny and can leave the base soggy.
In Ligurian versions, the pastry is traditionally rolled out very thinly and built up in several layers. This gives a light, crisp crust, but takes time and a bit of skill. This recipe uses filo pastry as a practical alternative: the separate sheets create a similar thin, layered effect. Brush each sheet lightly with oil so the layers crisp up individually as they bake. Filo pastry tears easily; small tears are no problem, as the next layer will overlap them.
Marjoram is characteristic of the filling’s gentle herbal flavour. If you can’t find it, use a smaller amount of oregano, which has a stronger flavour. Ricotta can vary considerably in moisture from one brand to another, so drain wet ricotta in a fine sieve beforehand. Parmesan adds more savoury depth than extra salt, but taste the filling before adding the eggs and season to taste.
Serve the pie as a vegetarian main course with a simple green salad dressed with lemon; the fresh acidity cuts nicely through the rich filling and pastry. It also works well for a buffet or lunch, as its texture holds up when served warm and the eggs cut neatly. After the meal, let any leftovers cool, cover and refrigerate them within two hours, and eat within three days. Reheat slices in an oven at 160 °C until piping hot all the way through; this keeps the pastry crisper than reheating it in the microwave.