Ripe tomatoes cook slowly with shallot, garlic and thyme until they form a soft, concentrated sauce. Serve this French tomato fondue with fish, an omelet or a thick slice of grilled bread.
Fondue de tomates is a French preparation in which tomatoes aren’t stuffed or roasted, but gently cooked down into a soft, thick mixture. The name refers to letting the ingredients “melt” together in the pan. Shallot, garlic and thyme give the tomatoes a savory, herbaceous base; olive oil helps bring the flavors together. Black pepper and parsley are added at the end, so the pepper retains its aroma and the parsley stays fresh.
Ripe tomatoes make the biggest difference. In the Netherlands, tomatoes are usually at their most flavorful in summer and early autumn, when they’re ripe and fragrant. Beefsteak tomatoes are handy because they have firm flesh, but any ripe tomatoes will work too. Their moisture is enough to let the shallot and garlic cook until soft; adding stock or water would dilute the flavor and extend the cooking time. A wide pan helps because more moisture can evaporate.
Slow cooking matters more than an exact cooking time. Let the tomatoes simmer gently and stir regularly, especially as the sauce thickens. This allows the moisture to evaporate without the tomatoes sticking to the bottom of the pan. The result should be soft and spoonable, not dry or smooth like a puréed sauce. The tomatoes’ natural sweetness becomes more intense, while their slight acidity remains. So taste at the end to see whether the seasoning needs more salt and pepper.
For a softer texture, you can peel the tomatoes first; with thin skins, this isn’t necessary. A few extra ripe tomatoes are a better substitute for less-ripe ones than adding sugar. If you don’t have fresh thyme, use a small amount of dried thyme and remove any tough stems or leaves before serving. You can leave out the parsley, but don’t add a large amount of other herbs: the tomato should remain the star.
Serve the fondue warm or lukewarm alongside fried or poached fish, spoon it over an omelet, or serve it with grilled bread for mopping up the thick sauce. It also works well as part of a simple meal with other vegetables. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and reheat them gently in a pan until piping hot throughout; stir as you heat so the thickened tomatoes don’t burn.
Bring a pan of water to a boil. Score a small cross in the bottom of each tomato and immerse them in the boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds. Transfer them to cold water, peel off the skins and remove the hard cores. Cut the tomatoes into pieces and catch the juice.
Finely chop the shallots and garlic. Strip the thyme leaves from the sprigs.
Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook gently for 5 minutes, without browning them.
Add the tomatoes and their juice, the thyme and the salt. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes. Stir regularly, and more often once the tomatoes start to thicken. Don’t add any water or stock.
Take the pan off the heat when the tomatoes are soft and concentrated and the fondue is thick enough to cling to a spoon. Season with black pepper and extra salt if needed. Stir in the parsley and serve warm or lukewarm.
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