ABOUT THIS RECIPEA clear broth with a kick of spice and citrus
Tom yum goong is a Thai soup with shrimp; tom yum refers to its sour and spicy character, and goong means shrimp. Its flavors don’t come from one thick sauce, but from an aromatic broth infused with lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves. Together, they bring citrusy, floral, and lightly peppery notes. Fish sauce adds saltiness and savoriness, while lime juice gives the soup a distinctly fresh finish.
In this version, the broth stays clear. This is one of the common styles of tom yum goong. There’s also a creamy version, often made with roasted chili paste and sometimes evaporated milk. The two approaches give different results: creamy and rich versus light and sharply defined. Coconut milk isn’t automatically part of every tom yum; leave it out here to keep the clear broth and fresh lime at the center.
Lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves mainly add fragrance to the broth. Bruise the lemongrass and lightly tear the leaves so their aromas are released more easily. Slice the galangal thinly; it’s usually not eaten, so you can remove the slices from the bowls before serving. Galangal has its own resinous, citrusy flavor. If you can’t find it, fresh ginger works as a practical substitute, though the aroma will be milder and different.
Oyster mushrooms have a tender, juicy bite and soak up some of the broth. You can replace them with shiitake or small button mushrooms; cut larger ones into bite-sized pieces. Add the shrimp only when the mushrooms are nearly done: a few minutes in gently simmering broth is usually enough. As soon as they’re pink and opaque, take the pan off the heat. This keeps them from turning tough.
First season the soup with fish sauce and chili, then add the lime juice after cooking. Heat dulls the fresh citrus aroma, so taste after adding it and gently adjust the sourness, saltiness, and heat. Serve as a starter in small bowls, with cooked jasmine rice on the side if you’d like to make it a more substantial meal. The soup is best right after it’s made, while the shrimp are tender and the lime smells fresh.