Crisp corn tortilla, creamy black beans, fresh cabbage and stringy quesillo: these tlayudas bring together different textures without cooking the tortilla until it’s completely hard. A spicy tomato salsa adds a fresh, smoky counterpoint.
Tlayudas are closely associated with Oaxaca, in southern Mexico. They’re made with a large, thin corn tortilla cooked on a hot griddle until firm and crisp, but not so dry that it breaks with the first bite. In this version, black beans, asiento, cabbage, quesillo and salsa make a complete meal. The large tortilla is easy to share; you can also serve smaller ones individually.
Asiento is the seasoned, soft sediment left over from rendering pork fat, and in Oaxaca it’s used as a spreadable seasoning. It gives the beans a savory, full-bodied base. Asiento isn’t available everywhere; a thin layer of lard is a practical substitute, though it has a less distinctive flavor. For a version without animal fat, you can use neutral oil. The black beans remain important: mash them roughly so they’re easy to spread but still have some texture.
Quesillo, also known as Oaxaca cheese, is a fresh cheese that pulls apart into strings when warmed. Its mild, milky character softens the beans and fat. If you can’t find quesillo, mozzarella works as a practical substitute. It isn’t the traditional ingredient and the flavor is different, but it melts well. Use low-moisture mozzarella and pat a very wet variety dry first; otherwise, the tortilla can turn soft.
The cabbage isn’t just decoration: very thin strips add a cool, crisp bite against the warm, soft cheese and beans. White cabbage is firm and easy to slice; pointed cabbage works too, but wilts faster. The tomato salsa gets its flavor from briefly roasting the tomato, garlic and dried chili before chopping them finely. Adjust the amount of chili to your preference and keep the salsa fairly thick so it doesn’t run off the tortilla.
A heavy skillet or cast-iron griddle works well at home if you don’t have a comal. Heat it thoroughly first and cook the tortillas without oil so they dry and brown evenly. Then top them sparingly and heat briefly, until the cheese is soft. The edge can be crisp, while the center stays pliable from the beans and toppings. Serve right away, with extra salsa if you like. Store leftover beans and salsa covered in the refrigerator; top the tortillas just before eating so they don’t turn soggy.
Heat a dry, heavy skillet over medium heat. Roast the tomatoes, unpeeled garlic clove and dried chili, turning regularly, until the tomatoes are blistered and the garlic is soft. Remove the chili from the pan sooner if it starts to darken quickly.
Peel the garlic. Grind or blend the tomato, garlic, chili and ¼ teaspoon salt into a chunky salsa. Taste and add more salt if needed. Set aside.
Put the black beans and 2 tablespoons water in a small pan. Heat and mash with a fork or potato masher until you have a chunky, spreadable purée. Add a splash of water if the purée is too firm.
Slice the cabbage into very thin strips. Pull the quesillo into strings and set both aside.
Heat a dry skillet or griddle over medium-high to high heat. Cook a corn tortilla for about 1 minute per side, until it starts to crisp but is still pliable. Transfer to a plate and cook the second tortilla the same way.
Spread each warm tortilla with 1 teaspoon asiento and top with the bean purée. Scatter the quesillo over the top and briefly heat the topped tortillas in the pan until the cheese begins to soften.
Top the tlayudas with the cabbage and salsa. Serve immediately, open or folded slightly in half.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
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