Thai tod man pla with makrut lime leaves and cucumber relish

A springy bite, a refreshing spoonful of relish

Tod man pla are Thai fish cakes in which the fish is made into a cohesive mixture rather than coarse flakes. Red curry paste adds heat and fragrance; makrut lime leaf brings a pronounced citrus aroma without making the dish sour. The leaf is tough, so it is cut into very thin strips. If you can’t find makrut lime leaves, you can leave them out. Lime zest is a useful substitute in a pinch, but it has a different aroma and is not part of the classic flavor of the leaf.

A firm white fish works well, such as cod, pollock or hake. Fresh or thoroughly thawed fish should be cold when you chop and mix it. Kneading the mixture firmly brings the released fish protein together into a sticky mass. This gives the cakes their characteristic springy bite and helps them hold together as they cook. Red curry paste varies in saltiness and heat from brand to brand, so taste a little before adding extra fish sauce.

The cucumber relish provides contrast: crisp, cool cucumber alongside warm, savory fish cakes. Vinegar and sugar make a simple sweet-and-sour base, while chili brings a brief burst of heat and peanuts add a roasted flavor and extra crunch. Don’t make the vinegar base too sharp; the relish should refresh, not overpower the seasoning of the cakes. Add the cucumber only once the base has cooled, so the pieces stay firm.

Serve the cakes as soon as they’re cooked, with the relish alongside so everyone can put together their own bite. As a starter, three cakes per person is a suitable portion; you can serve an extra bowl of cucumber or some raw vegetables alongside. They also work well as part of a Thai meal with rice and other small dishes. If making them ahead, cool the cooked cakes quickly and store them covered in the refrigerator; reheat them once, until hot all the way through, in an oven or frying pan. Store the relish separately and add the peanuts just before serving so they stay crunchy.