ABOUT THIS RECIPEWok-Fried Pumpkin with a Little Bite
Pad fak thong sai khai is a Thai stir-fry of pumpkin with egg. The ingredient list is short, so technique matters: thin wedges cook quickly and evenly, while garlic, light soy sauce and white pepper give the tender, mildly sweet pumpkin a savory flavor. The egg brings the pumpkin together at the end, but shouldn’t cook for so long that it turns dry.
You can use Thai pumpkin if it’s available; kabocha works well too. In the Netherlands, butternut squash is a practical alternative, though its texture is a little different. Choose a firm pumpkin and cut it into wedges about half a centimeter thick. This makes it possible to fry them over high heat and finish cooking them with a small splash of water without the outside turning mushy. Pumpkins grown in the Netherlands are widely available, especially in autumn and winter, while other varieties are often available for longer.
Use a wok or a large frying pan so the pumpkin doesn’t sit in a thick layer. The high heat gives the cut sides a little color; the small amount of water then creates steam and helps the insides cook until just tender. Keep the water to a minimum: this isn’t a saucy dish. A lid makes the steaming more even, but don’t leave the pumpkin unattended. The exact cooking time depends on the variety and the thickness of the wedges. Check with a fork: it should go in easily, while the pieces still hold their shape.
Light soy sauce adds saltiness and savory flavor without overpowering the pumpkin. Don’t substitute dark soy sauce in a one-to-one ratio; it has a fuller flavor and gives the dish a darker color. White pepper has a warm, direct flavor that goes well with egg and pumpkin. If you only have black pepper, use a small amount. Don’t add extra sugar: the pumpkin is naturally sweet.
Serve the stir-fry right away, ideally with fragrant jasmine rice and perhaps other Thai side dishes. As part of a meal, the mild pumpkin works well alongside something spicy or tart; let those flavors come from the other dishes rather than adding more ingredients here. Cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and eat them within two days. Reheat them in a pan until piping hot throughout; stir gently so the pumpkin doesn’t fall apart.