ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe flavor-maker at the bottom of the bowl
Tahu campur is associated with Lamongan in East Java and is served as a complete meal in a bowl. The combination of tofu, beef, bean sprouts and lontong makes the soup tender, savory and fresh with a little crunch. One key flavor note is petis udang: a thick, dark shrimp paste with a pronounced sweet-and-salty flavor. It is not the same as regular shrimp paste; petis is generally milder and sweeter. You can find it at Indonesian grocery stores and some Asian markets, often in a jar or pouch.
The broth gets its flavor from beef that gently simmers with a fried spice paste. Frying shallots, garlic, coriander, turmeric, ginger and galangal in oil first makes the spices aromatic before they go into the liquid. Lemongrass and lime leaves add a fresh, citrusy fragrance. Let the meat simmer gently, not boil vigorously: this keeps the broth clear and makes the beef tender enough to break into bite-size pieces. Beef stew meat or boneless beef chuck can also be used; allow for a slightly different cooking time.
The bowl has a range of textures, and they’re not just for decoration. Firm tofu gets a golden-brown crust in the pan while staying soft inside. Bean sprouts only need a quick blanch; cooking them for too long makes them limp. Lontong, steamed rice in compact slices, soaks up the broth and makes the soup filling. Ready-made lontong is convenient. If it’s not available, you can serve cooked rice on the side as an alternative, though you won’t get the firm slices.
Stir the petis with a splash of hot broth in the serving bowls to loosen the paste so it distributes well. Pour the rest of the broth over the top and serve sambal on the side, so everyone can choose how much heat to add. A squeeze of lime at the table can add extra freshness, but it isn’t needed to achieve the soup’s signature flavor. There’s no exact substitute for petis: shrimp paste with a little sugar can approximate its salty and sweet notes, but the result will be different.
Serve the soup as soon as the bowls are assembled, so the bean sprouts stay crunchy and the tofu doesn’t sit in the broth for too long. Store any leftover broth, meat and other components separately. Refrigerate leftovers within two hours, covered, and use them within three days; heat the broth and meat thoroughly before assembling new bowls.