Tacos al pastor with pork and pineapple

Achiote, chili and charred edges

A lot of what makes tacos al pastor comes down to the marinade: achiote gives the meat its warm reddish-orange color and earthy, slightly peppery flavor, while dried guajillo adds gentle chili heat. Vinegar brings tang, and garlic, cumin and oregano make the mixture fragrant without overpowering the pineapple. Achiote paste is often already seasoned, so it’s best not to taste it raw; keep any extra salt to a minimum and stick to what the recipe calls for. The marinade should coat the meat in a thin layer, not leave it swimming in a pool.

The signature way to cook al pastor is to roast thin layers of meat on a vertical spit and slice them off the outside. At home, a hot grill pan or heavy skillet gets you close to those browned edges, but it isn’t an exact substitute for a spit. Slice the meat as thinly as you can and cook it in batches: an overcrowded pan cools down, causing the pork to release its juices and stew rather than brown. Let the pan get properly hot again between batches. Since the slices are thin, they cook quickly; a thermometer is handy for checking that the thickest piece reaches 70 °C.

Guajillo is usually mild and fruity. If you can’t find it, use another mild dried red chili, such as ancho; the flavor will be a little different, but the achiote will still come through. Achiote paste is available at shops that sell Mexican or Latin American ingredients. Don’t use a large amount of chili powder as a direct substitute for the paste: it won’t add the same color and earthy flavor. Marinate the meat covered in the fridge for at least two hours and no more than eight, so the flavor has time to sink in without the acidic marinade affecting the thin slices for too long.

Pineapple is more than a sweet topping here: its fresh juice and slightly tart flavor cut through the spiced, savory meat. Ripe fresh pineapple works well; drained canned pineapple is also fine, but it’s softer and sweeter. Cook the pieces briefly with the meat or serve them fresh for a juicier contrast. Corn tortillas pair well with the bold marinade and make a soft, slightly nutty base. Warm them just before serving so they stay pliable. Put the onion, cilantro and lime on the table and let everyone finish their own tacos. Leftover meat can be quickly reheated in a hot pan until piping hot all the way through; store it covered in the fridge and use within two days.