Swiss Chard Rolls with Bulgur, Chickpeas and Tahini

A leaf that holds it all together

Stuffed vegetables come in many forms across the Levant; the filling, the wrapping and the cooking method vary from region to region and household to household. This recipe takes inspiration from that tradition, but it isn’t an attempt to recreate one regional classic. Here, Swiss chard serves as both the wrapper and an important part of the dish. The bulgur, chickpea and herb filling makes it a satisfying vegetarian main, while lemon and pomegranate keep everything light.

Swiss chard is generally available from spring through fall. Choose leaves large enough to fill and free from tears; smaller leaves can be overlapped. The stems are edible, but often firmer than the leaves. Finely chop them and let them simmer in the tomato sauce. That way, little goes to waste and they add a bit of bite. If Swiss chard is hard to find out of season, large cabbage leaves are a handy alternative. They may take a little longer to soften.

Fine bulgur quickly absorbs boiling water and stays light enough after soaking to mix with the chickpeas. Don’t use coarse bulgur without adjusting the method: it needs more liquid and time. There’s no need to pack the filling tightly. Bulgur expands a little more as it cooks, and a loose filling helps keep the rolls intact. Briefly blanching the leaves makes them pliable; they then gently simmer in tomato broth, which gives them flavor without making them fall apart. Keep the sauce at a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil.

Tahini can thicken when you add lemon juice. Then stir in cold water a little at a time until the sauce is smooth and spoonable. The exact amount depends on the tahini; stop when the sauce is thin enough to spoon over the rolls. If you can’t find pomegranate, extra lemon zest or a few finely chopped pieces of preserved lemon also make a fresh counterpoint, though they won’t have the juicy pop of the seeds. You can use cilantro instead of parsley; leave out the mint if you like.

Serve the rolls with the tomato sauce from the pan, tahini sauce and pomegranate seeds, with extra bread for mopping up the sauce if you like. A simple green salad goes well alongside, but there’s no need for rice or extra bulgur: the filling makes the dish quite substantial already. Cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and use them within three to four days. Reheat the rolls with a little sauce in a pan until piping hot throughout; store the tahini sauce and pomegranate separately if you want to keep them fresh.