ABOUT THIS RECIPEA charred top, a soft center
Sütlaç is Turkish rice pudding; the oven-baked version is often called fırın sütlaç. The basics are simple: rice is simmered until soft, then cooked in milk and lightly thickened with starch. The broiler creates its signature contrast: a dark, sometimes charred layer on top of a pale, creamy pudding. The rice gives it a fuller texture than a smooth custard, while the milk keeps the flavor mild. This dessert doesn’t rely on seasonal ingredients and can be made all year round.
The rice needs to soften before you add the milk. This gives it enough time to cook through without the milk having to boil hard for a long time. Stir regularly across the bottom of the pan as it simmers; milk can stick there quickly. Cornstarch lightly thickens the pudding, but doesn’t turn it into a firm gel. So first mix the starch with cold milk, then stir the mixture into the warm pan. The pudding may still look quite loose when you spoon it into the dishes: it will firm up as it cools.
Whole milk is best for a soft, rounded flavor. Short-grain rice, such as pudding rice, gives a fuller result; regular white rice works too, although the texture of the grains may be different. Cornstarch is a practical thickener with little flavor of its own. If you don’t use cornstarch, you can use another neutral corn-starch thickener according to the package directions, but take care not to make the pudding too thick. Vanilla isn’t needed for this version, so the rice, milk, and sugar stay clearly at the forefront.
For an evenly charred top, place the dishes close to the broiler and keep an eye on them. The surface browns quickly, and broilers vary from oven to oven. A few dark spots are just right; don’t let the whole top dry out under prolonged heat. Then let the dishes cool first and cover them before refrigerating. Chill leftovers promptly and keep them refrigerated for up to three days. The pudding is best cold; reheating it would take away the fresh contrast with the charred top.
Serve the sütlaç straight from the refrigerator. A little cinnamon goes well with its mild milky flavor, but it’s optional. Choose shallow, ovenproof dishes so the top has enough room to brown. If you don’t have suitable dishes, you can divide the pudding between one wide baking dish; just keep in mind that the broiling time may change. Bring the dishes to the table once the pudding is thoroughly chilled, so the top and soft center come together in every spoonful.