Golden-fried cassava with tender salted cod, onion, tomato and pepper: a Surinamese side dish with a lovely contrast of mild, salty and spicy flavors.
Telo is made with cassava that is first boiled until tender and then fried. These two steps create its signature contrast: the cassava develops a firm, golden-brown exterior while the inside stays soft and slightly starchy. Use fresh or frozen cassava; frozen cassava is often already peeled, which makes it handy. Cut the pieces to roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Always cook cassava all the way through, and never taste it raw.
Bakkeljauw is salted cod. Once desalted, the firm, salty fish is pulled apart and briefly fried with onion, tomato and pepper. How long it needs to soak depends on how salty it is and how it was sold. Ask your fishmonger for desalted bakkeljauw if you want to cut down on prep time. If you have salted fish, rinse it and soak it in plenty of cold water in the refrigerator; change the water and taste a small piece before continuing. The fish is already salty, so add any extra salt only at the end.
It’s important to drain the cassava well. Let the boiled pieces steam-dry for a little while and pat them dry if needed before adding them to the hot oil. Moisture on the cassava can make the oil splatter and makes it harder to get a crispy crust. Fry in batches so the oil temperature doesn’t drop too much. A wide frying pan with a shallow layer of oil works well; turn the cassava carefully with tongs. Drain the fried pieces on paper towels.
The pepper adds a kick to the fish mixture, but the heat varies by type and by pepper. Use a small piece of Madame Jeanette for a distinctive aroma, or use a mild red pepper if you want less heat. Leave the pepper whole while it cooks for a milder result, then remove it before serving. The tomato makes the bakkeljauw juicier and adds a little freshness that goes well with the mild cassava. Serve the fish alongside or spoon it over the telo so the crispy edges don’t soften right away.
Telo with bakkeljauw makes a good side dish or savory snack; serve it with a fresh salad if you’d like to turn it into a light meal. It’s best enjoyed straight after frying. Cover leftovers and refrigerate them within two hours, then eat within two days. Reheat the cassava and fish separately until piping hot; the cassava will be less crispy than when freshly fried.
Using salted bakkeljauw that hasn’t been desalted yet? Rinse it and soak it in plenty of cold water in the refrigerator for 8–12 hours. Change the water at least once. Taste a small piece; soak the fish longer if needed. Drain before you start.
Put the cassava in a large pot and cover with cold water. Add the salt and bring to a boil. Boil fresh cassava for 20–25 minutes and frozen cassava according to the package directions, until a fork slides in easily. Drain, remove any tough fibers from the center, and leave the pieces to steam-dry for 10 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry the onion for 4 minutes, until translucent. Add the tomato and pepper and fry for 3 minutes, until the tomato starts to soften.
Add the bakkeljauw and use a wooden spoon to break the pieces up a little. Fry for 5–7 minutes, until the fish is piping hot and mixed with the onion and tomato. Taste and add salt only if needed. Turn the heat to low while you fry the cassava.
Heat the 350 ml oil in a wide, deep frying pan to about 170 °C, or until a small piece of cassava starts to bubble gently as soon as it goes in. Fry the cassava in batches for 3–5 minutes per side, until the pieces are golden brown all over. Drain on paper towels.
Serve the hot telo with the bakkeljauw alongside or spooned over the top. Remove a whole pepper before serving the fish mixture.
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