Surinamese Saoto with Chicken, Rice and Bean Sprouts

A bowl you build yourself

Saoto is a spiced chicken soup from Surinamese-Javanese cuisine. The broth is the foundation: clear, savory and fragrant with onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and galangal, among other ingredients. The flavor should be bold, but not heavy or creamy. Bean sprouts, celery and sambal add fresh, green and spicy notes later. Saoto is served in different ways; rice, vermicelli and other toppings can vary from one table or recipe to another. In this version, they’re served separately so everyone can choose their own proportions.

Bone-in chicken gives the broth more flavor than chicken breast alone, and stays juicy as it simmers. Let the pot simmer gently rather than boil vigorously. A gentle simmer makes it easier to keep the broth clear and gives the aromatics time to release their flavor. Skim any foam from the surface and strain the broth before serving. A piece of ginger and bruised lemongrass are easy to spot in the pot; don’t cut them too small, so they’re easier to remove after simmering.

Galangal and daun salam are available at many Asian grocery stores. Daun salam isn’t the same as bay leaf, but if you can’t find it, you can leave it out or use one small bay leaf instead; the flavor will change slightly. For a milder bowl, use less sambal and serve extra sambal at the table. Chicken thighs or drumsticks are good alternatives to chicken legs, as long as they’re bone-in. You can use chicken breast alone, too, but simmer the broth for less time and remove the meat as soon as it’s cooked so it doesn’t dry out.

Rice and vermicelli make a soft, filling base, while bean sprouts stay crunchy if you briefly blanch them just before serving or add them raw. The potato sticks provide a crispy contrast. Cut them thinly and dry them well before adding them to the oil: damp potato splatters and won’t get as crispy. Drain the sticks and add them only at the table, or they’ll absorb moisture. Boil the eggs and prepare the toppings while the broth simmers.

Serve the broth hot and place the chicken, rice, vermicelli, bean sprouts, egg, celery, potato sticks and sambal in separate bowls on the table. That way, everyone can start with a clear broth or put together a heartier meal. Store any leftover broth and toppings separately, covered in the refrigerator, and use them within two days. Heat the broth until piping hot; add the crispy potato sticks only after reheating.