Tender duck legs, potatoes and Surinamese masala make a spiced stew with gravy to scoop up with roti. Yardlong beans add a fresh, satisfying bite.
In Suriname, roti is a meal of flatbread served with spiced sides, often potatoes and a braised ingredient. Chicken is a familiar choice, but duck also works well with masala: its dark meat stays flavourful during a long braise, and the fat gives the gravy a rich base. This is a duck variation, not an attempt to replace chicken roti as the one definitive version. Serve the roti alongside to soak up the sauce, or tear the bread into pieces at the table and scoop up potatoes and meat.
Surinamese masala is a spice blend; its ingredients vary by brand and household. If possible, use a blend sold as Surinamese masala rather than just any spicy curry paste. Briefly frying the masala with onion and garlic brings out the aroma of the spices and gets rid of their raw, powdery taste. Don’t leave them over high heat for too long: spices can turn bitter quickly. A whole Madame Jeanette pepper adds aroma to the stew without spreading its heat throughout the dish. Remove the pepper before serving, and don’t split it open unless you want noticeably more heat.
Duck legs need time before the meat comes easily away from the bone. Slowly rendering the skin first helps release the fat and adds colour; then gentle, covered simmering does most of the work. Keep the heat low enough that the gravy only bubbles now and then. Add the potatoes only when the duck is nearly tender. That way, the potatoes absorb the masala and gravy without falling apart during the long cooking time. If the sauce is very thin at the end, simmer it uncovered for a few minutes to reduce.
To get ahead, you can braise the duck a day earlier, until the meat is tender. Cool the stew promptly and store it covered in the fridge; heat it through later and add the potatoes while reheating so they don’t get too soft. If using pre-cooked duck legs, first cook the potatoes in the masala gravy until tender, then add the duck meat for the last 15 à 20 minutes. This heats it through without letting it fall apart.
Yardlong beans make a good vegetable side: briefly boil or blanch the pieces so they’re cooked but still have a little bite. Long green beans are a practical substitute if yardlong beans aren’t available. Roti from the shop can be warmed in a dry frying pan or according to the package instructions; keep the breads under a clean tea towel while you finish the rest. Set the stew, vegetables and bread out separately so everyone can choose their own balance of gravy, potatoes and roti.
Pat the duck legs dry and season all over with the salt and black pepper. Place them skin-side down in a cold, large roasting pan. Set the heat to medium-high and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the fat has rendered and the skin is golden brown. Turn the legs and cook the meat side for 2 minutes. Spoon most of the fat out of the pan and set aside about 1 tablespoon.
Turn the heat to low. Cook the onion in the remaining duck fat for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the garlic and masala and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Return the duck legs to the pan. Pour in the water or stock and add the whole Madame Jeanette pepper. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low and braise, covered, for 75–100 minutes. Turn the legs halfway through. Start checking after 75 minutes: the meat should come easily away from the bone.
Add the potato pieces once the duck is nearly tender. Braise, covered, for another 25–30 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked but hold their shape. Stir gently and taste the gravy; add more salt if needed. Remove the pepper. If the gravy is thin, simmer the stew gently, uncovered, for a few minutes to reduce.
Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to a boil. Cook the yardlong beans for 5–7 minutes, until tender but still with some bite. Drain.
Warm the roti breads in a dry frying pan or according to the package instructions. Serve the roti with the duck stew, potatoes and yardlong beans.
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