ABOUT THIS RECIPEThe deep flavour of cassareep
Cassareep gives pepperpot its distinctive dark colour and a flavour that is at once spiced, slightly sweet and savoury. It is a reduced cassava sauce that acts both as a seasoning and as an important part of the sauce in Surinamese pepperpot. Look for cassareep at a well-stocked Asian or Surinamese grocery store, and follow any instructions on the label. Even a small amount makes its presence known; adding more won’t automatically make the dish better.
In this version, beef takes centre stage. Chuck steaks or stewing beef contain connective tissue that gradually becomes tender during a long, gentle braise. Browning the meat on all sides first gives the sauce extra depth; after that, the pot should only simmer gently. Don’t boil pepperpot vigorously: the liquid could evaporate too quickly before the meat is tender. By the end, the sauce should be dark and glossy, but still easy to spoon over the rice.
Onion, garlic and tomato make a hearty base, while allspice and cloves add warmth. The Madame Jeanette pepper brings fragrance and heat. Leave the pepper whole and don’t pierce it if you mainly want its aroma; lightly crush it or cut it open for more heat. Remove it from the pot before serving and taste the sauce. The heat varies from pepper to pepper, so if you want to start cautiously, remove it sooner.
There’s no easy substitute for cassareep that will give you the same flavour. Ketjap, soy sauce or molasses can add colour, but they change the character of the dish, so don’t use them as equivalent substitutes. If cassareep isn’t available, it’s better to choose a different stew than a pepperpot that only resembles one in name. Salted meat or chicken is included alongside beef in some versions, but this recipe keeps beef at the centre and the sauce true to its character.
Serve the pepperpot with cooked white rice. It’s mild enough not to overpower the spiced sauce and soaks up the liquid well. A fresh cucumber or cabbage salad can be served alongside for crunch, but it isn’t part of the stew itself. Cool leftovers quickly, store them covered in the fridge, and reheat them thoroughly in a pan; add a splash of water if the sauce gets too thick as it reheats.