Hearty egg noodles, savory chicken and sweet-salty ketjap are the foundation of this Surinamese bami. Briefly frying the ingredients separately keeps the noodles firm and gives each one a chance to develop its flavor.
Surinamese bami is a familiar dish with its own local way of being prepared. Its name and noodles are connected to a broader Asian food culture, but this is not simply Indonesian bami goreng under another name. Surinamese kitchens have various ways of seasoning bami; here, ketjap, garlic, onion and celery make up the savory, fragrant base. This recipe keeps those flavors distinct and uses egg noodles, chicken and a little ground allspice.
Ketjap manis gives the noodles a rounded, slightly sweet flavor and helps the sauce cling to them. A splash of light soy sauce keeps the dish savory, while ground allspice adds warm spice. Allspice isn’t hot, so use it sparingly to avoid overpowering the garlic and celery. Some of the celery goes into the pan right at the end, so its fresh, green aroma remains noticeable instead of being cooked away.
The key technique is not to cook everything together in an overcrowded pan. First, fry the chicken in a single layer so it browns and cooks through, then remove it from the pan. Briefly sauté the onion and garlic, and give the drained noodles some time in the hot pan too. This lets excess moisture evaporate and allows the noodles to take up the ketjap without turning mushy. Drain cooked egg noodles well and don’t boil them for too long: they’ll cook a little more as they fry.
Chicken thighs stay juicy and stand up well to frying, but chicken breast works too; cut it into even pieces and don’t cook it any longer than necessary. If you don’t have egg noodles, regular wheat noodles will do, though the texture will be a little different. Ketjap manis is sweeter than light soy sauce, so it can’t be replaced one-to-one with soy sauce alone; if you do, add a little sugar and taste to balance the flavors.
Serve the bami right away, with extra finely chopped celery and chili on the side for anyone who wants more heat. A fresh cucumber goes well with the savory, slightly sweet noodles, but it isn’t part of the pan itself. Cover and refrigerate leftovers within two hours, and eat them within two days. Reheat them thoroughly in a frying pan with a small splash of water to loosen the noodles again.
Cook the egg noodles in plenty of salted water according to the package directions, but take them off the heat a minute early if needed so they stay firm. Drain and let them drain well.
Mix the ketjap manis, soy sauce and ground allspice in a small bowl.
Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large frying pan or wok over medium-high to high heat. Season the chicken with the salt and black pepper, then fry the pieces in a single layer until browned all over and cooked through, about 6–8 minutes. Transfer them out of the pan.
Heat the remaining oil in the same pan. Fry the onion for 2 minutes, add the garlic and fry for another 30 seconds. Transfer the mixture out of the pan.
Add the drained noodles to the hot pan and fry, tossing, for 2 minutes. Add the ketjap mixture and toss until the noodles are evenly coated.
Return the chicken and onion-garlic mixture to the pan. Stir in most of the celery and fry everything for another 1–2 minutes, until piping hot. Taste and add a little more salt or ketjap if needed.
Divide the bami among bowls or plates. Sprinkle with the remaining celery and serve the chili pepper on the side.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.