Golden brown and lightly crisp on the outside, soft inside: this bara gets its flavor from ground split peas, cumin, garlic and fresh herbs. Alongside it is a fresh, spicy chutney made with green mango.
Bara is a well-known Surinamese snack: a spiced, fried bread that is often eaten with chutney. The exact ingredients vary; in this recipe, soaked yellow split peas, flour, garlic and cumin form the base. Spinach and cilantro add color and a fresh, green flavor. The outside turns golden brown in the oil, while the middle stays soft and tender. Serve the bara warm as a sharing appetizer or alongside other small bites.
The split peas need plenty of time to absorb water first. Soak them for at least eight hours, then drain them well: any soaking water left behind will make the batter thinner than intended. Grind the peas with a small amount of fresh water into a coarse, cohesive paste. A food processor works well for this; scrape down the sides as you go. A few small pieces can remain, but a smooth purée is easier to mix with the flour.
The batter should be thick and sticky, firm enough to shape with wet hands but not so dry that it cracks. Add extra water a tablespoon at a time if it barely mixes; if it is too loose, mix in a little flour. The yeast gives the batter some airiness as it rests. Leave it to rise in a draft-free place until it looks visibly lighter, not necessarily until it has doubled in volume. The temperature in your kitchen determines how quickly this happens.
Frying calls for a high-sided pan and enough oil for the bara to float freely. Keep the oil around 170–175 °C: oil that is too cool makes the dough greasy, while oil that is too hot browns the outside quickly before the middle is cooked through. A kitchen thermometer is handy; without one, test a small piece of batter. It should bubble gently as soon as it goes in and gradually turn golden brown. Fry in small batches so the temperature does not drop too much, and drain the bara on a rack or paper towels.
The green mango chutney brings acidity and heat to contrast with the soft, spiced dough. If green mango is not available, use a firm, tart apple and add a little extra lime juice to taste; the flavor will be milder and less distinctive. Adjust the amount of Madame Jeanette to your preference and remove the seeds for less heat. Serve the chutney on the side so the bara stays crisp. They are best eaten right after frying; store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator and warm them briefly in an oven to firm up the outside again.
Soak the split peas in plenty of cold water for at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse them.
Grind the drained split peas in a food processor with 100 ml of the lukewarm water until you have a coarse, cohesive paste. Scrape down the bowl as needed.
In a large bowl, mix the pea paste with the flour, yeast, sugar, cumin, garlic, spinach, cilantro and salt. Gradually add the remaining 100 ml water and mix to make a thick, sticky batter. Add a little extra water, a tablespoon at a time, if it does not come together, or a little flour if it is too loose.
Cover the bowl and leave the batter to rise for 45–60 minutes in a draft-free place, until it looks visibly lighter.
Meanwhile, make the chutney: mix the grated mango with the Madame Jeanette, grated garlic clove, lime juice and salt. Taste and add extra lime juice or chili if needed. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pan to 170–175 °C. Set out a rack or a tray lined with paper towels. Fill the pan no more than halfway with oil, and do not leave it unattended.
Lightly wet your hands, take a portion of batter about the size of a small tangerine, and gently shape it into a flat ring with a hole in the middle. Carefully slide the bara into the oil. Shape and fry only as many at a time as the pan can comfortably hold.
Fry the bara in batches for about 2–3 minutes per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Turn them carefully with a slotted spoon. Drain and serve warm with the chutney.
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