Large roasted onions become edible bowls for a hearty filling of pearl barley and golden-brown mushrooms. A green salad with mustard vinaigrette keeps things fresh.
A large onion can be more than a flavor base at the bottom of a pan. Remove the center and gently roast the outer layers to create a sturdy, sweetish shell that pairs well with a savory filling. The edges brown further during the second stint in the oven and take on a light caramel flavor. Choose onions that are roughly the same size so they cook at the same time; yellow onions are mild and widely available, while red onions add a more pronounced color and flavor.
Pearl barley is hulled barley that softens as it cooks but still keeps a pleasant bite. That makes it a good choice for a filling: it binds the finely chopped mushrooms and onion without turning mushy. Cook the barley in broth for extra savoriness, and follow the cooking time on the package, as it varies by product. Don’t have pearl barley on hand? Use farro or spelt berries, following the cooking time given for those as well. The texture will be a little different, but still firm enough for this dish.
Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture. So cook them in a roomy skillet and give them time to release that moisture before they brown. An overcrowded pan will steam the mushrooms rather than fry them. Thyme goes well with both the earthy flavor of the mushrooms and the sweeter roasted onion. Crème fraîche makes the filling creamy; stir it in only after taking the pan off the heat, so the filling stays creamy rather than becoming watery.
This is a modern, French-inspired main course, not a classic preparation with one set regional version. The combination of onion, buttery creaminess, thyme and a fresh mustard vinaigrette draws on familiar French flavors, while pearl barley gives the meal a hearty, grainy base. A mild mustard works well in the dressing alongside the sweet onion; use Dijon mustard for a spicier, sharper note. A splash of extra vinegar makes the salad fresher if the onions come out of the oven especially sweet.
Serve the onions straight from the baking dish, with the green salad alongside so the leaves stay crisp. A simple mixed salad or lamb’s lettuce works well; choose leaves that can stand up to the vinaigrette. This dish can be made year-round, since onions are generally available throughout the year. In fall, hearty mushrooms such as cremini work well, but regular button mushrooms are just as good. If the onions are particularly large, give them a few extra minutes during the first stint in the oven: the outer layers should be soft before you add the filling.
Preheat the oven to 200 °C. Cut the tops off each onion and set them aside. Peel the onions. Carefully scoop out the centers with a small spoon, leaving a sturdy outer shell of about 2 to 3 layers. Finely chop the scooped-out onion.
Bring the pearl barley and vegetable broth to a boil in a saucepan. Simmer for the time indicated on the package, usually 25–35 minutes, until the grains are cooked but still have some bite. Drain if needed.
Place the hollowed-out onions in a baking dish, with their tops beside them. Brush the onions all over with 1 tablespoon olive oil and roast for 25–30 minutes, until the outer layers begin to soften but still hold their shape.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a roomy skillet. Cook the finely chopped onion over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the moisture has evaporated and the mushrooms begin to brown. Stir in the thyme leaves.
Take the pan off the heat. Stir the cooked pearl barley and crème fraîche into the mushroom mixture. Season with salt and pepper.
Take the onions out of the oven and spoon in the pearl barley filling. Loosely put the tops back on or place them beside the onions in the dish. Bake for another 15–20 minutes, until the filling is lightly browned and the onion edges are golden brown.
Meanwhile, whisk the Dijon mustard, white wine vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil together to make a vinaigrette. Toss it with the green salad just before serving. Serve the stuffed onions with the salad and the remaining thyme sprigs.
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