ABOUT THIS RECIPEA soft base with crispy buckwheat
This side dish is all about contrast: warm, just-wilted spinach against cool, creamy yogurt and dry, crispy buckwheat. Tahini gives the sauce a deep sesame flavor; lemon balances its richness. Buckwheat isn’t a grain but a seed, with an earthy, nutty flavor. Toasting the groats in a dry skillet makes them more aromatic and gives them a firm bite that holds up among the soft leaves.
Spinach shrinks considerably as it cooks, so 600 grams of raw leaves is a suitable amount for four people as a side dish. Fresh spinach is available year-round; the leaves are often smaller and more tender in spring. Preferably use washed spinach, and check even prewashed leaves for sand. Baby spinach can go into the pan all at once, while larger leaves may need a little longer. If there’s a lot of liquid in the pan after the spinach wilts, drain it before placing the spinach on the sauce. This keeps the yogurt thick and fresh.
Make the tahini yogurt smooth by first mixing the tahini with lemon juice and a small splash of cold water. Tahini can seem thick or grainy at first; keep stirring and add the water gradually until the sauce is spreadable. Greek yogurt gives it a rich, thick base, but plain yogurt works too. If it’s thinner, use less water and, if needed, let the sauce drain briefly in a fine-mesh sieve. Taste for salt and lemon: tahini varies in bitterness and intensity from jar to jar.
Toast the buckwheat gently, moving the pan often, as the groats brown quickly once they’re hot. Sprinkle them over the spinach just before serving so they stay crispy. The dish is best when the spinach is warm and the sauce is cool or at room temperature. Serve it alongside roasted cauliflower, carrots or eggplant, or with bulgur, rice or flatbread for a more substantial meal. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and keep the buckwheat separate; briefly reheat the spinach, then add the sauce and crispy groats.