Thin layers of filo pastry turn golden and crisp around a generous filling of spinach, salty feta and lemon zest. Serve the warm filo rolls with a cool yoghurt and dill sauce.
These filo rolls are all about the contrast between thin, crisp pastry and a soft, savoury filling. Spinach wilts quickly in the pan, but still contains a lot of moisture afterwards. So let the greens drain well after cooking and, once they have cooled enough, squeeze them firmly. That little bit of extra work helps prevent the pastry from going soft underneath. Chop the spinach only after removing the moisture; it will then mix easily with the crumbled feta.
Feta adds saltiness and a slightly crumbly texture, while lemon zest gives the filling a fresh aroma without making it wet. Taste before adding salt: feta varies in saltiness and is often salty enough already. Black pepper adds a little warmth. Filo pastry dries out quickly once the packet is open, so cover any sheets you are not using with a clean, slightly damp cloth. Brush the layers lightly with melted butter; too much butter makes the rolls greasy and can weigh down the layers.
The filo pastries are shaped into small rolls here, keeping the filling enclosed and allowing the pastry to brown all around. A hot oven gives them a dry, crisp exterior. Place the rolls seam-side down on the baking sheet and leave some space between them so the hot air can circulate. They are ready when the pastry is golden brown; colour is a more reliable guide than baking time alone, as ovens and filo pastry can vary.
Fresh spinach is handy when you find it in season, but this dish can also be made with frozen leaf spinach. Thaw it completely and squeeze it especially well before mixing in the feta. For a sharper filling, use a little extra lemon zest, but don’t add lemon juice to the spinach: extra moisture works against a crisp result. The herb sauce made with yoghurt, dill and lemon juice makes every bite fresher. You can replace the dill with finely chopped parsley or mint.
Serve the rolls warm as a starter, with the sauce on the side so the pastry stays crisp. A simple salad with cucumber and radish goes well, but isn’t needed to complete the dish. The filo rolls are best eaten soon after baking. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat them on a baking sheet in an oven at 180 °C until heated through; they will be less crisp if reheated in the microwave.
Preheat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan) and line a baking sheet with baking paper.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the spinach in batches and toss briefly until the leaves have just wilted. Drain in a sieve and, once the spinach has cooled enough, squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Chop finely.
Mix the spinach with the crumbled feta, lemon zest and black pepper. Taste and add salt only if needed.
Lay one sheet of filo pastry on the work surface and cover the remaining sheets with a slightly damp cloth. Brush the sheet lightly with melted butter, place a second sheet on top and brush that lightly too. Cut the double layer in half lengthways.
Spoon about one twelfth of the filling onto the short end of a strip of pastry, fold the sides in and roll it up into a sealed roll. Place it seam-side down on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pastry sheets and filling, then brush the tops with the remaining butter.
Bake the filo rolls for 18–22 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Meanwhile, stir together the yoghurt, dill and lemon juice.
Leave the rolls to rest for a few minutes and serve warm with the herb sauce.
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