ABOUT THIS RECIPEA batter that gets to rest
Semolina gives these pancakes a different texture from a batter made with flour alone: soft inside, with a fine grain you can just taste. Fine wheat semolina works best, so the grains can absorb enough liquid during the short resting time. Yogurt makes the batter mild and a little richer; milk makes it pourable. The result is deliberately a modern breakfast dish, not an attempt to recreate a specific regional pancake.
A resting time of about ten minutes helps the semolina absorb liquid. Don’t skip this step: if you cook the batter straight away, the pancakes may be a little grainier and less cohesive. After resting, the batter should be thick but easy to scoop. If it’s so stiff that it doesn’t spread a little on its own in the pan, stir in a tablespoon of milk. Fine semolina absorbs liquid slightly differently from brand to brand.
Cook small portions over medium heat. A pan that’s too hot will brown the outside before the inside is cooked through; a moderate heat gives each pancake time to cook. Wait to flip until bubbles appear on top and the edges look drier. The underside should then be firm enough to turn with a thin spatula. Use the first pancake as a guide for the heat.
Cardamom goes well with both yogurt and citrus, but keep the amount modest so the orange flavour still comes through. Oranges are often readily available in the winter months; for this dish, look for ones that feel heavy and juicy. Cut the segments over a plate so you can spoon the collected juice over the fruit and pancakes. Pistachio adds a salty, crunchy contrast; chop the nuts coarsely, not into a powder.
Serve the pancakes straight away, with yogurt and fruit alongside or on top. For brunch, you can arrange them in small stacks on a platter and serve the toppings separately so the pancakes don’t go soft. If you don’t have pistachios, use coarsely chopped almonds or hazelnuts. Leftovers can be covered and stored in the fridge for up to two days; reheat them gently in a frying pan or microwave. Store the fruit and yogurt separately and add them just before serving.