Thin slices of potato and onion turn tender in olive oil and come together with egg to make a substantial, golden-brown tortilla. Serve it in wedges at room temperature with a fresh tomato salad; handy for a brunch you can mostly prepare ahead.
Tortilla española is a Spanish potato omelette that you can serve in wedges. Potato, egg and olive oil form the base; onion is included in many versions and adds a sweeter flavour. Here, the onion is slowly softened until lightly golden, without browning too much and turning bitter. The potato is cut into thin slices so it cooks evenly and mixes easily with the egg. The result is firm enough to slice, but should remain tender inside.
The generous amount of oil is not an afterthought: it gently cooks the potato and onion instead of quickly browning and crisping them. Keep the heat moderate and stir occasionally so the slices don’t stick to the bottom. Drain the cooked vegetables over a bowl; you can leave the collected oil to cool and save it for another time. Let the potato and onion drain briefly before folding them into the beaten egg. This keeps the mixture from becoming unnecessarily watery.
Let the egg and potato mixture stand briefly before putting it in the pan. The egg then seeps between the slices, helping the tortilla hold together better. Cook over low to medium-low heat and turn the omelette using a large plate: place the plate over the pan, turn them both over together, then slide the tortilla back into the pan. A non-stick pan and a plate that’s slightly larger than the pan make this easier. If you use a smaller pan, the tortilla will be thicker and may take a little longer to cook.
The tomato salad adds freshness and acidity to balance the soft, savoury tortilla. Ripe tomatoes are available all year, but during the Dutch tomato season, roughly from summer to early autumn, local tomatoes are often at their best. Outside that season, firm vine tomatoes are a practical choice. Sherry vinegar works well, but red wine vinegar also works; use a little less of the latter and taste the dressing. Dress the salad just before serving so too much liquid doesn’t end up on the plate.
For brunch, you can cook the tortilla earlier in the day and keep it covered in the fridge. Don’t leave it at room temperature for longer than two hours; refrigerate any leftovers promptly and eat them within three days. Take the tortilla out of the fridge before serving so it isn’t ice-cold on the table. It also makes a handy lunch: cut it into small wedges and serve with bread or a green salad. The tomato salad can be stored separately and dressed just before eating.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices about 3 mm thick. Halve the onion and cut it into thin half-rings.
Heat the olive oil in a 24 cm frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the potato, onion and 1 tsp salt. Cook gently for 20–25 minutes, turning the mixture regularly. The potato should be tender, but not crisp or dark brown.
Set out a bowl and carefully drain the potato and onion. Save the oil. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the remaining ½ tsp salt. Fold in the warm potato and onion and let the mixture stand for 10 minutes.
Wipe out the pan and add 1 tbsp of the reserved oil. Heat over medium-low heat, pour in the egg mixture and smooth the top. Cook for 5–7 minutes, until the edge is set and the underside is golden brown.
Place a large plate over the pan and turn the tortilla out onto it. Carefully slide it back into the pan and cook the other side for another 3–5 minutes, until the tortilla is firm but still tender in the middle. Let it rest for 10 minutes before cutting it into wedges.
Cut the tomatoes into wedges and toss them with the sherry vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil just before serving. Serve the tortilla at room temperature with the tomato salad.
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