Smashed Potatoes with Green Tahini and Crispy Onions

Tangy and crispy with potatoes

This is a modern side dish, not a set Middle Eastern classic. The combination draws inspiration from flavourings found in various cuisines across the region: tahini made from ground sesame, fresh lemon and sumac, a spice with a pleasantly tart taste. Together, they give roasted potatoes a creamy, fresh counterpoint. Parsley makes the sauce herby and green, while the onion adds a distinctly crispy touch.

Small, waxy potatoes are handy because they hold their shape after cooking and are easy to flatten. Cook them until tender, but not so long that the skins come loose or they fall apart. A glass with a flat base or a potato masher works well: press them until they are about a centimetre thick. This creates more surface area to brown in the oven. Use baking paper and give the potatoes some space; on a crowded baking sheet, they are more likely to steam than roast until crispy.

The sauce should be thick but pourable. Tahini can be firm or quite runny in the jar, so add the cold water gradually. At first, the mixture may seem thicker; keep stirring, then thin it until it flows smoothly off a spoon. Taste for lemon and salt before spooning the sauce over the potatoes. No parsley on hand? Coriander gives it a more pronounced herbal flavour. For a milder sauce, you can replace some of the parsley with fresh mint.

Slice the onion thinly and separate the rings before lightly dusting them with flour. Fry them in small batches in hot oil, so the pan does not get too crowded and the rings turn evenly golden brown. Drain them on kitchen paper and sprinkle with the sumac while they are still warm. Sumac tastes tart and fresh; lemon zest is not an exact substitute, but it does add a lively touch if you cannot find the spice.

For best results, spoon the sauce over the hot potatoes just before serving and top with the onion rings so they stay crispy. Serve them alongside roasted vegetables, grilled fish or chicken, or put them on the table with a salad and bread for a light meal. Store any leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat the potatoes without the sauce in a hot oven. Add the cold sauce and crispy onion afterwards; the onion will soften during storage.